Can I replace the 2m248j magnetron with 2m246
The correct magnetron for your unit would be part number WB27X10309 and this is what you will want use.
This is a GE Profile, built-in microwave. Everything works except that when we turned it on last night, it made much more noise than usual, almost like the normal sound of it kicking on, but louder and a bit rougher. I placed a cup of water in for a minute and it did not heat at all, lending credence to my first thought, bad magnetron. I can fix anything, and I have the unit out of the wall and can see, easily, how to remove and reinstall a magnetron. The question is, is it simply the magnetron or when they go bad, is it usually because of some other failure (e.g., capacitor, control board, fuse, etc.)? A replacement magnetron is much cheaper than a new unit (plus frame kit!). Thanks.
Answer Hello Automall,
As the magnetron could be the problem, it is also a possibility that it could be the capacitor WB27X10296 or the diode WB27X10597 that would be causing the problem.
We often get error messages with random letters and numbers. This seems to happen most often if we open door after timer goes off but don't wait until it has finished beeping, etc. We shut the circuit breaker off and then on and it resets but it is happening more and more. It's 12 years old. Any idea what is wromng with it?
Answer Hi. Remove the top vent grill. Remove the top cover on the top of the controls. Then remove the controls top mount screw. Lift up and off on the control panel to remove it from the front of the cavity. You will access a service tech sheet under the control panel or tucked in folded in a packet. It will explain any fault codes. What are the error messages? Send them to us to help get the correct parts. Thank You.
My microwave made a spark like sound and died. I replaced the fuse, tested it, and it did it again. After read it I see that could it be the micro switch, cavity thermostat or magnetron? Does this sound right? Also will it make sense to fix since it's at least 12 yrs old?
I would first check the door switches. There are three of them. A door monitor switch, a primary switch, and a secondary switch. If the switches are in the wrong state, the fuse will blow. By the wrong state I'm referring to whether they are open or closed. Two closed at the same time that aren't supposed to be shoots the fuse. There should be a tech sheet in the unit so you can differentiate the switch configurations to see if they are the problem. If the door switches are the issue, replace all three at one time to avoid repeat door switch failure.
If the issue isn't the door switches, you do need to be careful about digging a money pit. You should shop for prices of new units before dedicating to an expensive repair. If the magnetron and the high voltage transformer both need replaced, the resulting bill for the parts only will add up to the price of a new unit.