Beautiful Refrigerator, hate to part with it. Refrigerator side works perfectly. Problem is Freezer, it goes down to -11 degrees, but then comes up to 12 or 15 degrees (and even 56) several times a day, the food thaws and the ice cream gets soft or melts. Because most of the time, everything is working, I tend to rule out the MAIN BOARD, which was just replaced in October by a service technician (for $300 parts and labor) but that was a total different issue were other than the lights, nothing was working. I love your video on changing a MAIN Board, I did watch as the one in Oct was changed. But do you have videos on changing the termistors were ever they are located??.
Other issue, the little plastic spring loaded POSITIVE door latch on the refrigerator side. at the bottom. has broken (as do all plastic things in life) do you sell those items?
Answer Carlo, This parts diagram WR55X10025 has a video attached to it. Of course your refrigerator may not have the same thermistors located in the same area(s)but they are pretty much in the same location on most GE refrigerators. You may also want to check the evaporator fan motor. It is a variable speed motor, and can get stuck in a low speed or not rotate at all, this can cause temp. fluctuations in the temperatures also.
I have a GE side by side refrigerator. My problem started with the freezer going warm and frozen food would thaw then freeze up again the next day. Started happening as the weather got warmer. Now it's not freezing. I have since replaced all 3 thermistors but still freezer remains slightly below 40 and fresh food side around 45. I have checked coils and they are not frozen. Evaporator fan and condenser fan are both running. Compressor is hot and I have cleaned the condenser. Please advise.
Answer Hello Anthony,
If the compressor is hot there is a high probability of a sealed system restriction. This would start giving a problem a little at a time until the unit won't keep food at all. The issue normally takes a filter/drier, the evaporator coil, the heat exchange assembly, (capillary and low side return lines), and sometimes the compressor. Of course the air circulation inside and outside of the unit should be verified first. This includes making sure both fans will start back up to full speed on their own when you stop them physically. If they have to be helped to start back up or gain full speed, the fan motor should be replaced since this will cause temperature issues.
My ge refrigerator coil ices up and then it starts to warm up. I replaced the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. The problem is still present. Do I need to replace the main board or could there be something else bad
You will want to test the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance at 0 degrees should be 42.2K ohms. If not within proper resistance then the thermistor is bad and would need to be replaced. If it checks ok then the control board would need to be replaced.
Freezer side not defrosting. After manual defrost runs for a month then quits freezing. Refrigerator side seems ok. Checked heater and it had continuity. Replaced control board with new p/n wr55x10942. Installed 5/7/2014. Now not freezing or defrosting again. Why would it run this long and then quit? My appliance dealer gave me the new controller but he does not seem to now why it runs this long then quits. Any ideas what to check or change next?? thanks for any help....steve.
Since this is a defrost issue that you are having, the issue would most likely be caused by a faulty defrost thermistor which is located at the top of the evaporator assembly. You will want to check this thermistor to make sure that it has the proper resistance. The reason it works for a month is that it steadily builds up frost on the coils and once it gets to a certain amount then it affects the cooling of the unit. The thermistor part number is WR55X10025. The following is the resistance chart for the thermistor. The thermistor can be checked from the control board in the back of the unit.
Temperature(°F)Temperature(°C)Resistance in Kilo-Ohms
-40 -40 166.8 kO
-31 -35 120.5 kO
-22 -30 88.0 kO
-13 -25 65.0 kO
-4 -20 48.4 kO
5 -15 36.4 kO
14 -10 27.6 kO
23 -5 21.0 kO
32 0 16.3 kO
41 5 12.7 kO
50 10 10.0 kO
59 15 7.8 kO
68 20 6.2 kO
77 25 5.0 kO
86 30 4.0 kO
95 35 3.2 kO
104 40 2.6 kO
113 45 2.2 kO
122 50 1.8 kO
131 55 1.5 kO
140 60 1.2 kO
Note: To accurately test a thermistor, place the
thermistor in a glass of ice water (approximately
33°F) for several minutes and check for
approximately 16K O.