Temp control will not stay set at 0 / 37 degrees. It keeps getting colder. I replace the defrost thermostat & temp sensor in refrigerator with no luck. I'm thinking about replacing the main electronic control board please advise.
If it is the refrigerator section that the temperature is getting too cold then you will want to check the damper assembly to make sure that the door is not broken. If the door is broken you will want to replace part number WR49X10091.
No Power only inside lights work. Already replaced main board same thing?
Answer Steve, The interior lights are a direct circuit to the line cord, so as long as there's power to the refrigerator they should work. The Brown wire on the J11 terminal of the main control is the 120 VAC power into the control. You'll need to use a meter and check for the voltage on the wire terminal. It isn't likely that two different control boards would be defective, but it is possible. you'll need to get the wiring diagram and check for voltages in and out of the control board. Hopefully it's just a loose or broken brown wire.
Is this a genuine general electric new part and if it doesn't work how long do I have to return it?
Answer Hello Nancy! Yes, the board is new from the manufacturer and is an OEM part. You have 365 days from the date of purchase to return the part for any reason. Please see the following link for more return information. Thanks! http://www.appliancepartspros.com/customerservice/returns.aspx
Will a replacement main electronic control board get rid of the loud whine my refrigerator makes? The install video does not indicate that it will.
If the whining noise is coming from the evaporator fan then yes it should stop the fan from whining. If the noise is coming from the compressor then it may be considered a normal noise.
Side by Side GE refrigerator, not getting cold temperature in fridge and freezer read 72. Fan in rear is working, water dispenser and lights work fine, fan in freezer work only when I press the turbo cool, compressor not working! Can it be the mother board? Over 10 year fridge! thank u Manni
You will want to check to see if there is power going to the compressor by testing the wires that go to the overload and relay for 120 vac. If there is 120 vac there then most likely the relay is faulty and you would want to replace it. If there is no power to the relay then the issue would most likely be the control board.
I installed the new board and the refigerator works. However, when it shuts off now it makes a banging noise like the coils or condenser shake. What causes this?
Answer Hello David. That is usually a sign of a broken compressor spring. The only way to repair that is to replace the compressor if the noise is from the compressor.
Model # GSH25JSTA SS, my refrigerator stops running about every three weeks or so, the outlet is good and there is no corrosion anywhere, after about 24 hours or so, it decides to work again, the icemaker has been overworking and doesn't switch off when the tray is full, cracking the shelf above, is the problem likely to be attributed to the defrost timer ? The refrigerator is approximately 6 years old, thankyou, P.R.Abbott
This unit does not use a defrost timer but does have a main control board in which this is most likely the issue with the unit shutting off for 24 hours every couple of weeks.
Freezer at 29 and cool section at 60, two mother PCB's have the same cooling above
Answer Matt, You'll need to check the WR49X10091 auto damper in the refrigerator compartment, the damper door could be broken and closed, or the motor has failed in the closed position, and the air from the freezer isn't being distributed to the refrigerator.