What is the polarity for the overload/start relay combo module?Its a GE gsh25jsta ss.the frig.has a black and orange wires(2) I'm replacing the module.
The black wire is you line feed and would go to the terminal next to the blue dot on the relay combo. The orange is neutral and goes to the terminal next to the post on the relay combo.
I have a GE Profile Arctica S x S Refrigerator with a model number of PSS29NHNABB Serial RD401602 that is about 10 years old. Both the refrigerator and freezer section are not cooling and are up to 61 degrees. We cleaned and checked all. When you open the door and then close it you do hear the motor running. I am thinking the motherboard is faulty? Any thoughts.
You will want to check the evaporator coils to see if they are impacted with ice or if they have a good frost pattern. If the frost pattern is a good even pattern from the top to bottom then the issue will be with air flow. If the coils have just a little frost where it comes into the unit then there is a sealed system issue. If the coils are impacted with ice and you have a defrost issue in which You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board.
Model PSS27NGMD WW
I just received and installed the main control panel on my GE Profile Arctic Refrigerator. Now the compressor is not coming on.
Answer Hello KL. You need to test for power to the compressor. If there is power there and it does not run, then the compressor may be bad. If there is no power, look for a wiring issue on the unit.
First, thanks for the excellently wonderful site for those who wants to troubleshoot problems in their appliances. I haven't finish reading all the Q&A yet, but decided to mention the problem first.
My GE refrigerator PSS25MGMB CC stopped freezing and cooling, meaning the freezer section as well as refrigerator section are not working, but the fans are running fine.
Initial troubleshooting revealed that the compressor is not running. While trying to find the voltage across and around start up PTCR relay, when I touched the white wire of the relay with a MM leads, magically the compressor kicked back on, and it started freezing and cooling like normal, I concluded that the white wire of the relay was loose. Kept it running on and off for the 2 days, but third morning the compressor stopped working again.
During second troubleshooting session, checked the voltage across comp and line (black and brown wire) at the main board, it shows 120 VAC, figured the startup circuitry is getting 120 VAC, OK, then checked the ohms across all 3 winding (S, R and C), it came out out 6, 6 and 12 approx, figured compressor is OK. suspected bad ptc relay and overload relay, replaced both with new, still the compressor didn't start.
During third troubleshooting session, checked the voltage around startup circuitry, able to verify 120VAC at the two relays and the capacitor inputs, but suspected no current flowing thought the startup circuitry, suspected capacitor bad, replaced with new, but still the compressor won't start, no humm, no noise, just cold.
So my question will be, can something in the main board causes the current not to flow through the compressor startup circuitry, though the 'comp' and 'line' are showing 120VAC, Please advice.
Thankfully appreciated in advance.
You will want to check for voltage from the overload which would be the black wire coming off the compressor to the orange wire on the relay to see if there is 120 vac at this point. If there is 120 vac at this point then the compressor sounds like it would be the issue. If you do not have 120 vac at this point then you will want to check at the main control board from the blue connector that has 3 spade connectors that it attaches to. Check from the black on this connector to the orange on connector J7 pin 9. If there is not 120 vac at this point then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced. If there is power there and no power to the overload and relay then the issue will be in the wiring of the unit.