My GE fridge temp is going up and down in both freezer and fridge. freezer is set at 0 and goes from -2 to 17 and fridge is set at 37 and goes from 35 to 47 seems to heat up and then cool down. back bottom coil is clean
You will want to check the thermistors in the unit to make sure that they are reading the proper resistance. The following chart is the resistance values for the thermistors.
Temperature(°F)Temperature(°C)Resistance in Kilo-Ohms
-40 -40 166.8 kO
-31 -35 120.5 kO
-22 -30 88.0 kO
-13 -25 65.0 kO
-4 -20 48.4 kO
5 -15 36.4 kO
14 -10 27.6 kO
23 -5 21.0 kO
32 0 16.3 kO
41 5 12.7 kO
50 10 10.0 kO
59 15 7.8 kO
68 20 6.2 kO
77 25 5.0 kO
86 30 4.0 kO
95 35 3.2 kO
104 40 2.6 kO
113 45 2.2 kO
122 50 1.8 kO
131 55 1.5 kO
140 60 1.2 kO
Note: To accurately test a thermistor, place the
thermistor in a glass of ice water (approximately
33°F) for several minutes and check for
approximately 16K O.
If the resistance is not within ranges listed then the thermistors would need to be replaced. If they check ok then the main control board would be the issue.
One of your chat personnel recommended main board part #AP4436216 for $143.67; was needed to solve this issue: the tope interior light bulb doesn't work inside the refrigerator side of my appliance. But when tested in another socket outside of unit, does function. The temperature for the refrigerator side of appliance registers at 84 degrees on door panel temperature board. I am unable to reset to a cooler number. The freezer side of the appliance works fine. How can I reset my refrigerator to a colder degree?
Answer J. Moore,
Based on the information, the upper lights not working in the refrigerator section would most likely be caused by a faulty refrigerator light thermostat. If you remove the upper housing and pull it down there is a thermostat that is in between the light harness and the light itself. You will want to test this for continuity. If there is no continuity then the thermostat is bad and you will need to replace the light harness which is part number WR23X10493. For the touch display not allowing you to adjust the refrigerator temp, if the temp will adjust but will go back to the higher number then you will want to check the thermistor to make sure that it is reading correctly. If not then replace the thermistor. The resistance of the thermistor is 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If the temp display just will do nothing at all then the most likely cause would be a faulty display board.
What is the polarity for the overload/start relay combo module?Its a GE gsh25jsta ss.the frig.has a black and orange wires(2) I'm replacing the module.
The black wire is you line feed and would go to the terminal next to the blue dot on the relay combo. The orange is neutral and goes to the terminal next to the post on the relay combo.
I have a GE Profile Arctica S x S Refrigerator with a model number of PSS29NHNABB Serial RD401602 that is about 10 years old. Both the refrigerator and freezer section are not cooling and are up to 61 degrees. We cleaned and checked all. When you open the door and then close it you do hear the motor running. I am thinking the motherboard is faulty? Any thoughts.
You will want to check the evaporator coils to see if they are impacted with ice or if they have a good frost pattern. If the frost pattern is a good even pattern from the top to bottom then the issue will be with air flow. If the coils have just a little frost where it comes into the unit then there is a sealed system issue. If the coils are impacted with ice and you have a defrost issue in which You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board.
Model PSS27NGMD WW
I just received and installed the main control panel on my GE Profile Arctic Refrigerator. Now the compressor is not coming on.
Answer Hello KL. You need to test for power to the compressor. If there is power there and it does not run, then the compressor may be bad. If there is no power, look for a wiring issue on the unit.