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Customer Questions and Answers for Main Control Board by GE

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    • Part Number: AP4436216
    • MFG Part Number: WR55X10942
    • Made by: GE
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Questions & Answers

For GE Main Control Board (Part Number: AP4436216)

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The part did not come with the instruction. Not sure if I got the right board it looks different from my original board. Can you send me detailed instruction on how to install the new board.

Isaac for Model Number gsh25jsrfss

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My refrigerator is running warm, and the freezer is defrosting. A technician told me the main control board needs replacing, and he said the hinges are bad. He jerry-rigged the door so the seal is tighter, and the items in the fridge part are cold again. However, the freezer is not freezing...there is no sign of frost anywhere, either. This will cost me about $350...is this right, and should I repair it or buy a new fridge? Thank you.

Ellie

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On the freezer door of GE model GSF25XGRBCC all the lights when depressed work but no water or ice ( cubed or crushed) will come out of the dispenser. I hear no clicking sound when the water actuator is depressed with a cup or glass. Also when either ice button is depressed no ice comes out of the dispenser. Another thing is in the refrigerator section, at the top is a display for temperature control. The display is blank and will not display the temperature settings. When either of the two buttons is depressed it will display zero then shut off, I do hear the fans in both sections working however. The customer support rep at Appliance Parts Pro mentioned it may be a control board issue from the fact so many things are not working as they should. Is the control board part number WR55x10942 - AP4436216 the solution to above issues?

Mark for Model Number gsf25xgrbcc

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Have a constant clicking noise in back of my refridgerator and fan on back doesn't seem to be working. Seen a lot of posts about replacing mother board but don't see anywhere that sells my motherboard part # WR55X10416? Any help greatly appreciated

Jerry for Model Number GLD20KCSBC

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In the instructions for replacing the main board step 2 says to eliminate thermistor wire in pin 2 of j1 connector. The note says this step is for bottom freezer models, which mine isn't, but below that it says Encoder models with following serial # prefixes, which mine is listed. Not sure whether to cut the wire or not. It says cut the white wire but mine is yellow/white. I was so close, then bam....stumped! Thanks

C Kiser for Model Number HSS25IFMDCC

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My refrigerator was not coming on, replaced main board. Everything is working fine except my inside lights will not come on. Check switch ok, blubs ok,check orange wire inside no voltage. How do you check it out. Even replace encoder board

Triker for Model Number GTS22IBMBRWW

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Yesterday the fresh food side heated up to 80 degrees (seems like the defrost cycle stayed on). I replaced the mother board last year because of ice maker ice melting. I had noticed recently that the freezer and fresh food temperatures seemed to be unstable.

Robbie W. for Model Number GE PSC25PSSA SS

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I have a GE side by side refrigerator GSS23QGTA WW and the defrost mechanism is not working properly. I replaced the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater and frig works properly until the frost builds up again. When I got the defrost heater it was a duel heater instead of the single one that was the original. I originally connected the electrical ends to the original connections in the freezer and disconnected the yellow wires that came with the unit. When that did not work I saved the yellow wires and reconnected them, after again defrosting the frig again. Again cool properly, begins to make ice again and within a couple of days ice begins to build up again. That fan seems to be working because I will feel heat discharged at the kick plate.

Annette

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Noticed refrigerator compartment was warm. Checked freezer coils and there was ice all over them. Replaced defrost thermister, and upper thermometer in freezer. Noticed that the defrost heater coil was broken. Replaced defrost heater and thought it was fixed. Checked on it again and it was icing up again. I looked closer at the defrost heater and noticed it was broken again. Had a spare and replaced it again. Set the settings to put the unit into defrost mode. Checked and the heater was red hot. About 5 minutes later checked the heater again and noticed once again the heater coil was broken. I guess my question is where do I go from here, and could it be because I bought an after market defrost heater vs the more expensive one from GE?

Steven for Model Number GSS20IETAWW

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So I have the apparently common situation of ice maker working fine but no water (light illuminates when pressed). Determined it wasn't a freezing/blockage issue and ultimately figured it might be the secondary valve. Replacement valve did not help. It does appear the solenoids are getting powered upon lever press but no water is flowing (well maybe a dribble out of the valve. Checked the electrical connection under the front plate seems fine. Is their a voltage I can test on the secondary valve to confirm it is the main board? Could it be anything else?

Richard for Model Number PSI23MGMABB

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