I think the condenser motor is bad on my unit. At first, the freezer had a thin sheet of ice in the very bottom under the drawer. Stuff on top shelves began to thaw but items on bottom were fine. Fridge was working okay. Now, the top half of the fridge is not cold, though the bottom half is (bag salad in bottom crisper door froze, in fact). The top half of freezer is luke warm too, but items in drawer and bottom shelf are frozen, next shelf above is cold but not frozen, etc. Ice maker will not work either.
The condenser fan motor was not turning until I cleaned that whole area and it began to turn, but seems to have stopped again. Would it be the only/primary thing to cause this type issue or should I also look to replace something else? I'd prefer to order what I need all at once and see how much it will cost total, to see if worth trying to fix. Don't want to spend $300+ on a compressor kit or something; I'd just go get a $500 replacement fridge...
Answer Hello KinmanFridge. The fan motor can cause the cooling issues. However, the ice may be due to a clogged drain. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/173916-kenmore-top-mount-refrig-h2o-build-up.html
My refrigerator stopped cooling, both the freezer and refrigerator. The water dispenser also stopped working. I thought it was the main control board so I replaced it. For 1 week after that, everything worked fine. Unfortunately, now after a week and 1 day with the new control board, and I am back to the same problem. Any ideas?
GE DEFROST ISSUE
You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Only getting 4 volts to the condenser cooling fan motor . Should be 12 volts AC ?
If you are only getting 4 vdc to the fan motor then you will want to check at the control board to make sure that it is putting out the proper voltage and if not then replace the control board.
The Fridge side is not cooling (65 Degrees set at the coldest setting), but it appears that the freezer is still working fine. Any ideas?
Answer Hello Troy. Look and see if there is frost on the back wall in the freezer. If so, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html