My refrigerator stopped cooling, both the freezer and refrigerator. The water dispenser also stopped working. I thought it was the main control board so I replaced it. For 1 week after that, everything worked fine. Unfortunately, now after a week and 1 day with the new control board, and I am back to the same problem. Any ideas?
GE DEFROST ISSUE
You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Only getting 4 volts to the condenser cooling fan motor . Should be 12 volts AC ?
If you are only getting 4 vdc to the fan motor then you will want to check at the control board to make sure that it is putting out the proper voltage and if not then replace the control board.
The Fridge side is not cooling (65 Degrees set at the coldest setting), but it appears that the freezer is still working fine. Any ideas?
Answer Hello Troy. Look and see if there is frost on the back wall in the freezer. If so, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Freezer works great, the issue is the lower part doesn't stay cool. Would this be a board issue (WR55x10942) or fan issue (wr60x10209)?
You will want to check to see if the evaporator fan is running. If not then you will want to check power to the fan which should be 12 vdc. If there is not power to the fan then you would need a new control board. If the fan is working then check for a defrost issue. When you uncover the rear wall of the freezer compartment, if the coils are impacted with ice you will need to check the defrost heater and limiter to make sure that they have continuity. If not then replace the part. If they do then the issue would be either the defrost thermistor or the control board. You can check resistance of the thermistor which will tell you whether it is faulty or not.
My Freezer side doesn't go below 19 degrees and when i unplug it and re plug it it goes to zero. Also over night it doesn't stay cool and the fridge side has water below the bottom draw. what needs to be done ? or what is the problem
You will want to check to make sure that the condenser coils on the back of the unit behind the compressor cover are clean. Also make sure that the condenser fan motor WR60X10209 is operating. An inoperative fan motor or dirty coils can cause the compressor to overheat and shut down until it has time to cool down.