Just installed a new dryer motor p#AP4295548 and now it sounds like the motor buzzes when the cycle/timer switch is turned on and will not start. It is wired according to the schematic that came with the motor #5 blue, #4 yellow, #3 none, #6 brown, #1 black, and #2 purple
ANY help with a cause or different wiring for this issue would be much appreciated....THANKS....Dave...
Answer Hello David,
It sounds like the start switch is stuck or there is some other issue going on. You need to test the start switch, the door switch, and the centrifugal switch. It looks like you have wired it correctly if the instructions from GE are correct. If the motor buzzes without activating the start switch I would first suspect the start switch and then I would suspect the wiring is somehow incorrect or the new motor has an issue.
The motor on my GE Dryer hums but doesn't turn. A friend told me it was a problem with the starter capacitor. Is this the problem? If so, what is the part # ?
Answer Hello Martin. The model you provided is not working. Based on the information you provided, the motor is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit.
My GE dryer is very noisy. I took the drum out and ran the motor and it seems too noisy but spinning the motor manually, it feels that the bearings are smooth. Could it be that it is running on only 1/2 voltage? I checked voltage to the motor and it is getting 120 volts on both power wires. Do I need a motor or is there something I am missing?
Answer Hello Larry,
If the motor sounds too loud without pulling a load, It probably needs to be replaced. The only thing on a dryer that is 240Vac is the heating element. Everything else including the motor is 120Vac. The noise could be from a voltage issue caused by the windings in the motor shorting and actually changing the characteristics of the electrical circuit. If the windings don't have the correct resistance it will make the motor sound like a bearing is failing.
I just noticed the last statement in your question says you are getting 120Vac on two terminals at the same time. This could actually be a set of contacts sticking in the timer, feeding the voltage to the motor twice at the same time, OR it could also be a bad centrifugal switch on the motor that provides power to the start winding until start-up. When the motor starts, the switch is opened by the motor spinning and disconnects the voltage to the start winding. This will have to be determined by the use of a test meter to see if the centrifugal switch is dis-engaging the voltage.