Alarm sounds with #f7 continually showing each time alarm sounds. The touch pad is unavailable for my model. But the oven controller is available. I would like to change the controller board, what is the likelihood of this being my problem. If it does not solve problem is it returnable?
The way to test to see if it is the controller or keypad, push the clear off. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the control and wait at least 32 seconds. If the code reoccurs then the problem is in the control and if the code does not reoccur then the problem is with the key pad. The parts do carry a 365 day guarantee.
I received my new double oven control board. The old board has A black and white wire on the L1-2 terminal which is by itself. On the new board, it does not have that connect. From looking at the drawing supplied with the part (P/N: WB27T10287), I think it goes to the common terminal on the broil 2 relay. Is that correct?
Answer Hello Ken. Retrofit of Sanyo / Torisan ERC3H or ERC3DD range control in place
of Invensys or Siebe or Robertshaw.
Kit contains: 1 control
1 lock motor assembly (30” wall ovens, only)
Suggested tools: 1/8” flat screwdriver
Short or 90° ¼” nutdriver
Medium Phillips screwdriver
1. Kill power. Access rear of control by dropping the control panel (3 screws underneath control panel
on wall ovens) ( 4 screws on rear wire cover on freestanding range). Protect the panel from scratching.
2. Preparation of harness for Torisan ERC. The yellow (bake), violet (broil) and/or yellow (convect)
lead terminals for the elements may have a keyed housing. (Fig A). This has to be removed. Insert a
small screwdriver or awl into the front (opposite side from lead) and pry the internal retainer away
from the brass colored terminal. Slide housing off terminal. 3. General controller changeout. Transfer the leads from old control to the new control. The terminals
are in the same approximate positions and are named the same. The VIOLET, YELLOW and
YELLOW for CONVect insert onto terminals located ON TOP of the relays on the Torisan control.
Connectors with plastic housings insert with flat side toward small gap between terminal and wall
(Figs B). Fig B.2
THE BROIL RELAY HAS TWO CONNECTIONS (Fig D): VIOLET goes to NO and BLACK (L1A)
goes to COM. The BAKE has only the YELLOW to NO and CONV has only the YELLOW for
CONVect to NO. The letters NO and COM are small and are molded into the relay covers adjacent to
the terminals. There are color dots corresponding to the lead colors on the relays. (Fig D)
The new control may not have a GND terminal for the green wire. On models with steel control panels,
the ground wire must remain connected to the Clock Bracket. The terminal for the control must be
taped or tucked under the clock bracket before re-assembly. On models with plastic control panels, the
green wire should be removed. 4. Special consideration for Double Oven controls. ( Control has Relays for Both Upper and Lower Ovens)
Beware the GREY for MDL1 and BLACK/WHITE for MDL2 have their position reversed
on the new control. (See Fig F) Be sure to test Clean door latching operation before leaving. 5. LATCH MOTOR CHANGE OUT. On 30” Single and Double Wall ovens it is necessary to change
the lock motor assembly from the original Kingston (Fig G) to a lower profile type (Fig H) to provide
clearance for the terminals on top of the power relays. This should be done while control is out.
Remove two screws that are facing up on the latch assembly base plate just behind the vent trim and to
the right of the hook. Disconnect the 3-lead switch harness by squeezing the locks on the connector
side. Disconnect two individual in line black power leads to the motor.
The new latch assembly (Fig H) fits into same mounting holes and harness connections. The black
motor leads can be swapped.
6. The membrane keypad connector may have a vertical lock bar instead of horizontal. When
reassembling the control panel, check that no leads interfere with latch moving parts. Check all bake,
broil, clean, convect, oven light operations after assembly.
Broiler failed to work then bake and convetion quit working.
You will want to put the unit into bake and see if you are getting 240 vac between bake and L1 on the control board. If you are then you need to replace the control board.
Thanks for your reply. but you sure it's 220V single phase?
it has 4 electric wires. RED, WHITE, BLACK, and GROUND.
if it's single phase, how to connect the wire?
i thought it's 3phase. because it has 4 lines.
there's no 3phase oven in GE?
anyway please reply me. thanks.
Yes this unit is a 220vac single phase unit. The way that the wires are the red and black are line, white is neutral and green is ground. When connecting plug to the range you would connect red and black to the outside terminals of the terminal block. The white will go in the center. If the grounding strap goes to the middle terminal then you would remove the ground strap and connect at the ground terminal and connect the ground to that point.
The lower oven is not working. I opened the unit to look at the controller and everything visable looks good. I was going to replace the Controler WB27T10287 and Control Panel WB36T10207.
I have noticed on the internet that the new controlers don't always plug and play. That some of the wireing need to be reworked. Is this true?
Answer Hello Alan,
I would check the high limit WB24K5037 first. The high limit on this unit has a reset button. Be advised though, you should turn off the breaker to the unit before trying to reset the high limit because there will be at least 120Vac floating on the component at all times and you could be injured or killed without turning the power off first.