Hi i replaced the 2 ignitors and one lights up its the bottom one and i was curious as to if it was a wiring problem cause i can not get the top ignitor to turn on or is there a fuse or a safety switch somewhere? any tips or suggestions would be very helpful
Answer Hello McKenna,
It is possible that it could be a wiring issue. It would be helpful if we had the model so that we could look at the wiring for the unit to give you a better idea of what to look for to repair. To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
I am attempting to replace the igniter but the problem I have is that the two screws that mount the igniter will not unscrew. I can turn them with my socket wrench but they never come out. It doesn't matter how long I turn them. I have tried pulling the screws out with wire pliers but that doesn't work either. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
Answer Hello Shane,
The only method I have found to be effective is to try to get a flat-bladed screwdriver between the burner and the metal part of the ignitor mount. Apply twisting pressure while turning the screws. This will either get them to thread out or twist off the head. If it comes out, GREAT!. If the heads twist off, you will have to use something like a small pair of needle nosed vise grips to try to get the screw to go back in the direction it started in, (thread it back in). This will allow the screw shaft to drop out when the stripped part of the threads gets far enough back. As a note, only one will have to be completely removed. The other, if both broke, can be used as a guide stud and as long as the second screw is replaced with a self tapping screw with a hex head, the ignitor will not go any where.
As another note, if you put a dab of grease on the threads of the new screw before installing it, this will sometimes make the screw come out easier should it have to be removed. Be aware that the extreme heat that these screws are exposed to are the initial cause of the screws seizing.
In the worst case scenario, the burner may have to be replaced to be able to mount the ignitor. If this is the case, be sure to adjust the air shutter the same as the old one before installing it to simplify the installation for you.
Does the igniter bar glow continuously when the oven is on? This would result in a 3.2 to 3.6 amp draw continuously when the oven is in use. Thanks.
Answer Hello Jerry,
Actually, when the thermostat is satisfied, the circuit is broken and the ignitor cools while the gas valve is closed. When the thermostat cools and re-establishes continuity, the circuit is re-energized, and the ignitor starts heating up again. Then when the amperage reaches 3.2 to 3.6 amps, the gas valve is opened again and the process repeats.
I tested the igniter at. 95 ohms. Oven bake was not lighting, but broil was. 120 volts at plug from board. Once apart the oven decided to light, go figure. It takes about 75-80 seconds to light from press of start. Does my ohms sound right, and what is an acceptable light time? It has been slow to heat up to temp. Thanks.
Answer Ryan, A resistance reading of 95 ohms is in range, But a resistance test is not the best way to test an oven igniter. The best way to test the igniter is to use a "clamp on" amp meter TJMA-600CF. with the meter clamped around one of the wires, as the igniter glows, there should be a 3.2 to 3.6 amp draw, and at that point the gas valve bi metal switch should open and release the gas for ignition and flame. On avarage it should only take 30 to 60 seconds, if the igniter is operating properly and drawing the correct amperage. If you can't get access to a meter, replace the igniter, 95 % of gas oven temperature issues are do to a "weak" igniter.