When baking at higher temperatures 350+ the oven will heat to temp and after awhile beeps giving a F3 error code usually. Occasionally has thrown F4 and F5. After hitting Clear cannot immediately restart oven. After waiting about 10-minutes or so, can restart oven and the cycle repeats. When baking at lower temps the oven runs normally. Is this likely the Sensor or Control Board?
Answer Mike, The F3 and F4 Error codes indicate the issue is in the oven temperature sensor [ ] This can happen in older ovens, and after a self clean cycle. The F5 error code indicates an issue in the ERC/Clock, The "watchdog" or checksum circuit. But based on the post and since the issue is at higher temperatures only, start by replacing the oven temp. sensor, and check the wires, connector for damage.
When oven reaches 350 it will cut off.
Answer Hello Archie. The sensor should read around 1650 ohms at 350°. If bad replace the sensor WB21X5301. If good, replace the control. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Oven keeps beeping every few minutes and displays error code.
Answer Hello Sridhar,
Could we ask you to please re-post and list the fault code?
I have a 19yr old GE electric Oven. Model - JDP37G0T1BB The oven does not heat to the proper temperature. Ex. - I set it at 400, and it does not go above 260. I replaced the heating element. Is there a way I can determine if this may be a sensor of thermostat issue w/out having to buy both, or trial and error? Is there anything else it could be? Adam
Answer Hello Adam,
The sensor WB21X5301 should read about 1100 ohms of resistance at about 70°F. If it reads good, turn the power off to the unit and open the control panel. Find the terminal on the control labeled BAKE and remove the wire. Make sure the wire cannot contact ground or any other connector and reconnect power. Set the unit to bake and test for 120Vac at the terminal. If no voltage is there, the control has failed. If 120Vac is there, the other side of the circuit, (the wire you disconnected), should have 120Vac on it. If it does, the element is failing. If it doesn't, you need to trace the circuit to locate the bad connection. This can be at the terminal block, the wall outlet, or the breaker.