I was getting an F2 error code. I looked it up that it was the sensor, my brother decided to try and remove the sensor to take it to get a replacement part and couldn't get it out so he "pulled harder" and I think it broke disconnecting the wires. What part would I now need to purchase or how do I check to see what if anything is broken? It is a Kenmore PLT059-2 M#911.3042593 in wall gas oven.
Answer Brenda, The part you would need is WB21X5301 Oven Sensor Assembly. It will contain a new sensor with wires and connector as well as two hi temp porcelain wire nuts. If the connector was damaged, he would remove the connectors and strip the end of the wires and use the wire nuts to splice them together. Hopefully he can "fish" the harness wires out through the opening where the sensor was attached, otherwise he will need to remove the oven from the wall, to access and repair or splice the wires.
I could use some guidance on replacing the temperature sensor in the wall oven. Will I need to remove the whole oven or is the inside wall of the oven removable so that I can get to the back without taking the whole thing out, including control panel?
Answer Hello Mary,
The rear wall of the oven is not removable but if you are careful not to pull the wires loose, it can be changed from the bake compartment. This is done by removing the two mounting screws and gently pulling the connector through the opening. Unplug the connector and do not let go of the connector so it cannot fall back into the opening. Plug in the new sensor and use a long shafted flat blade screwdriver to push the connector through the visible opening and the second opening beyond the insulation. This protects the connector from the bake compartment temperatures.
The time light and all the buttons to turn on the stove are no longer lit up. The nightlight works and the burners but we can not use the stove.
Answer Hello Camille. The part you need is WB12K19. This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.
The oven ignites ok but takes up to 30 min to come up to temp and sometimes never gets there. Its a gas oven. I replaced the control board and that didnt help. The broiler sometimes lights and not sometimes. I checked the oven thermostat with ohm meter and it was with in specs. Any ideas?
Answer Hello Randy,
You should check the amperage through the ignitors. It sounds like you either have an ignitor going out of tolerance or a gas valve failing. To determine witch is the problem, put a clamp on ampmeter on only one of the two ignitor wires and turn the unit on to bake. The amperage reading should be from 3.2 to 3.6 amps. If it is low, the ignitor is failing and will have to be replaced. If not, the safety valve most likely has an internal mechanical issue.
We bought sensor WB21X5301 for our oven for the F3 Error. I want to know is problem really the sensor and what is the difference between low cost sensor and the expensive one? Thank you
Answer Hello Mah,
There is no difference from one sensor to the next other than the length and the connectors placed on the wires by the manufacturer. The F3 fault code can be caused by the temperature sensor, a bad connection between the sensor and the control board, or a bad control board.
Oven turns ON and then shuts OFF 45- 60 seconds later.
Answer Hello Stan. It sounds like you need to order and replace the control board on the unit.
Hi, F3 error code. Ordered cheap sensor didn't fix the issue.
Answer Hello Mah. We will need your model number to help you with this. Please call 1-877-477-7278 or post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Getting error code F-2. Replaced Sensor assembly and now get error code F-3.
Where can I purchase the control board?
Answer Hello Ken. Sorry, the part needed WB27K5190 has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.
We were having problems with the keypad (2 and 9 didn't work) and getting an F3 code. Also the temp of the oven wasn't getting as high as we set it for, so we had to trick it by setting it at 400 to get 350.
I replaced the keypad. That solved the 2 and 9 issue, but we still got the F3.
Then I replaced the oven sensor (the metal probe that sticks into the oven thru the backwall and plugs in to the wiring) The oven seemed to work fine for a week, but now we're getting F3 again. Argh! What next oh wise ones?
The F3 is an open or shorted sensor circuit which could be the result of contamination on the terminals, pinched wires in the sensor circuit or cold solder joint on the control. You will want to do a resistance check of the oven sensor which should be 1100 ohms at room temp of 72 degrees. Also check the continuity of the wire harness from the control board to the oven sensor and make sure that there is continuity there and visually inspect the wires for damage. If all this checks ok then replace the control board.