Our GE refrigerator does not work properly. There is no cooling in the refrigerator, no air flow or very small (can not feel that even) comes into the refrigerator. There is no cold in the freezer, but I can see the ice in the back wall. I checked the back, the compressor is working, I can feel it is warm (to hot), there is no leaking. There is also a fan, which is working well. I have no idea what happened in our refrigerator!
You stated that there was ice on the rear wall of the freezer compartment. If this is the case then you will want to pull the rear cover and see if the coils are impacted with ice. If so then you have a defrost failure in which you will need to check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have a Bad PTC MFG-Murata- Part# PTH7M6R8MD2-00 Out of a Holiday freezer with run Capacitor. Mod# LCH0701PW-C1- SER# 14949547DP – Question do you have a replacement or plug in substitute?
Answer Keith, the relay is part number 4356738, the overload is part number 8210241, and the capacitor is part number 8210239. These parts may appear different in appearance however, they are manufacturer suggested replacements and will work on your unit. Thanks.
Fridge not cooling. Coil is froze up inside the freezer. Any ideas
It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to check the defrost thermistor to make sure that it is not bad. If the resistance shows normal based on information on wiring diagram then you would need to replace the control board. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have a Hotpoint Fridge the fan is working on the compressor but the compressor won't come on?
Answer Hello Eric,
You will want to unplug unit and pull the relay off the compressor. Shake relay and see if it rattles and if it does then it needs to be replaced. If it does not then do an amp draw and if you are getting more than 9 amps to the compressor then you will need to replace compressor.
What does this do?
Answer Hello Lee. The relay starts the compressor for operation. The relay WR07X10025 has a coil in it that is connected in series with the "run" winding in the compressor. When the power is applied, the compressor draws a high current as it is in a "stalled" state. This current is high enough to "pull" the relay in, which connects the "start" winding. This is connected through the capacitor which gives the start winding a "leading" state in electrical terms, which sets the motor rotating. As the motor speeds up, the current drops and is no longer sufficient to hold the relay up, and the motor continues to run without the "start" winding..
The neutral, or cold side of the motor is connected via a small thermal breaker which cuts the motor off if it doesn't start, until the breaker cools down, then it has another go at starting. This is the buzz and "Click" noise you sometimes hear if you turn your fridge off for a short period and then back on. The compressor often wont start if the discharge pressure is too much greater than the suction.
Some compressors have a "run" capacitor as well which remains connected to give the motor a higher torque, both for starting and running states. All of this only takes a split second. Hope this helps.