My refrigerator is warm and not keeping food cold. Freezer seems to be working fine. Evaporating fan works ok. Compressor is warm to the touch. Condenser fan works. Could it be the run capacitor? We are at a loss.
Answer Hello Sparky. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, Check the evaporator thermistor. If it is good, you will need to replace the control board. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Refrigerator/freezer was not staying cold, really too warm. I replaced the condenser motor, but now the fan does not run???????????? Now what??
You will want to make sure that the condenser fan motor is getting power to it. If it is not then the control board is the most likely cause for the issue.
My ice and water dispenser started working intermittently. A few days later I noticed the freezer wasn't running and it and the fridge were not cooling. I still had power on the unit but I reset the breaker to make sure. The refrigerator came back on as did the intermittent ice and water dispensing. Over the next couple of days the unit started a hard clicking noise which seemed to dim the lights in the unit and on the door dispenser. This was taking place just before the compressor would kick in and the unit would then run. The next thing, the hard clicking occurred for longer, maybe a few minutes, before the compressor. Then the clicking wouldn't stop so I turned the freezer to 0 setting, off, and then back on and the compressor ran and cooled. Now today that doesn't activate the compressor so all it want to do now is click, click, click ... no compressor, no cooling. The clicking sound is coming from the "window" between the freezer and the fridge compartments. I can place my finger on the small door between the two side and feel something as the unit appears to be calling the door to open or close. I have had this refriderator for 9 years and want to know if this sounds like a big fix or not.
Answer PD, If you're sure you have the proper power supply (120 VAC, grounded, polarized, 15 amp outlet, then your issue is going to be in the main control board "motherboard" on the back of the refrigerator WR55X10942. All the power to all the components are distributed, and controlled through the motherboard, including the damper assembly ("the window between the freezer and the fridge")The dimming lights and "clicking noises" when the compressor attempts to start would indicate a voltage issue to the refrigerator or in the control board itself.
Hello my refrigerator was working perfectly fine and my power went off and after that my fridge doesnt want to turn on actually my lights and everything is on but nothing else what do you think it is.
If the lights are on but the fans and compressor do not cycle on then the most likely cause would be a faulty control board. You will want to pull the power from the unit for 5 minutes and then reconnect and see if the unit comes on. This would reset the board. If not then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced. If the fans are coming on but no compressor then you will want to check to make sure that the compressor is getting 120 vac to it. If it is then most likely the start relay has failed and would need to be replaced and if there is no power to it then the control board is most likely at fault.
The fan runs but will not cool and its not freezing up. Tried moving thermostats either way but no change. It just quit all of the sudden.
If the fans are running but the compressor is not then the most likely cause of failure would be the relay WR07X10025. You would want to replace the overload with the relay as it normally weakens from a bad relay WR08X10026.