Refrigerator makes a loud banging sound on startup. After approximately 10 to 15 seconds it goes away there is silence and then the fridge turns on and the fridge operates normally for hours. This noise occurs two or three times a day. Is it the compressor relay or capacitor?
Answer Hello Jeff,
You may want to check your condenser fan motor for too much play. Access the rear of the unit and take the back cover off. Unplug the power to unit. Wait 5 minutes to plug back in. When you plug back in check to see if the fan is hitting or if the compressor is making the banging noise. If it is the fan blade that it hitting then the shaft of the motor WR60X187 is allowing too much play and would need to be replaced. If it is coming from the compressor then the compressor WR87X10096 would need to be replaced.
Compressor does not run. No voltage to it.
Answer Hello Kevin. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html
Both sections of this refrigertor are cool but not enough to keep foods cold and frozen. I have a new defrost timer. What else could it be??
Answer Hello Smilema. Remove the back wall inside the freezer and see if the coils have a partial frost pattern on them. If so, there is a sealed system issue and you will need an HVAC tech to repair the unit.
I replaced the icemaker and water valve but not make ice. What is wrong?
Answer Hello Jose. You need to check and see if the fill tube is frozen on the unit and if so, you will need to thaw out the fill tube on the unit.
Refrigerator runs for 1 to 20 hours, then the GFI trips not using the water dispencer or ice maker, only the refrigerator and freezer cycling as needed. It does not trip on every cycle.
Answer Hello Mark,
As per the manufacturer, a refrigerator should not be plugged into a GFI receptacle or you may encounter "nuisance tripping" of the GFI. The following is directly out of the manufacturers installation guide:
The refrigerator must be plugged into its own dedicated 115 Volt, 60 Hz., 15 Amp, AC only electrical outlet.
The power cord of the appliance is equipped with a three-prong grounding plug for your protection against electrical shock hazards. It must be plugged directly into a properly grounded three prong receptacle. The receptacle must be installed in accordance with local codes and ordinances. Consult a qualified electrician. Avoid connecting refrigerator to a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) circuit. Do not use an extension cord or adapter plug.
The freezer coils iced up. The designers never intended for me to try taking it apart, but with effort & patience I got the freezer disassembled looking for a defrost timer. Does this model have one? I got rid of the ice in the freezer coils by not touching parts, and on reassembly it works fine, both the upper freezer section and below in the food storage main compartment. After running all night with the lower foods section having chilled all foods successfully, I adjusted the temperature controls but it would not shut off if I turned down the
freezer temp control to the lowest (warmest) setting. I switched it to OFF and it did shut off. I switched it back on and it started running as normal again. I have not heard it shut back off again since, it keeps running the compressor. My big question is which part, or parts, control the Defrost Function and how often does it automatically run defrost? It has to have a defrost timer I would think, but I cannot locate it nor a part number. If you can direct me on those questions please, and if you expect it will shut off again when it reaches the cooling temperature as set now. Also, how old is this second owner used unit? It is in very nice condition for a huge unit that I bought from a guy for $10 who likely gave up on it because it would not defrost. Just after I bought it, it ran fine but then the lower compartment got very warm, so I knew it was a clogged up freezer coil section, and it was. It's working perfectly now, both upper & lower sections, but I am expecting it to freeze up with ice again in the freezer coils.
Answer Hello Byron,
The defrost timer on this unit is being called the defrost control WR9X520. It's listed in the section called compartment separator parts. You will locate the defrost timer in the control box. The control box is where the controls are mounted,(ceiling of the fresh food compartment). Most of the time there will be a hole, maybe with a removeable plug, so you can reach in with a small screwdriver to advance the defrost timer into or out of defrost.
As for the unit not kicking on and off properly, this will be from a bad temperature control WR9X517. As far as the age of the unit, you might be able to contact the manufacturer and find out as it is normally coded into the model number.
None of the lights will turn on in the fridge. The freezer lights up fine, and all the bulbs in the fridge look fine (the filaments are intact). I think it needs a new capacitor, but I can't tell which one, or how to find in the unit. How do I find this part?
Answer Hello. You will need to check and see if the light switch WR23X10143 is bad in the unit. If so, it will prevent the lights from working in the unit. Test for power to the light switch. If there is power at the light switch, but not going through to the lights, you will need to replace the light switch. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html