Can I replace the thermostat fuse we4m137 for a we4x800....or do I have to have the specific part....the we4x800 its just a bit wider.
If the unit is calling for part number WE4X800 then this is the part you would want to replace. There may be a temperature differential between the two fuses.
Hi , I have a 2 year old dryer (hotpoint) when turned on won't heat . I'm thinking thermostat and if so is their only one? What would the part number be?
Answer Hello John,
You have a total of 4 thermostats. You have a thermostat that is part of the blower duct system WE4M127. This is located at the base of the unit in the front. You have 3 that are mounted on the heater assembly. Safety thermostat WE4M160, 4 wire thermostat (high Limit) WE4M181, Safety thermostat (thermal fuse) WE4M137. You will want to check continuity of all these things. Also check the heater assembly WE11M23 for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hi Replaced igniter assembly because dryer wouldn't heat and it was faulty. Dryer now heats when empty but won't work when it has clothes in it. Any ideas please?
Answer Hello Jan. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.
Why would this dryer start normally then stop after 3 minutes? It goes completely dark --- no control panel lights at all. Resetting the circuit breaker doesn't fix it. I bought a chimney sweep kit and run the entire vent line out of the house, replaced the main circuit board with absolutely no change. Replaced all the thermistors/thermostats except the safety thermostat AP2042565 just because I missed it. No change for the better yet. After the dryer stops, the control panel comes back on in 10 minutes. Then the dryer will run on the lowest heat setting for a few minutes then stop again. When it comes back this time it will run for another 30 minutes or so then quit again. Will this safety thermostat cause the issue? If not, then what will? Thanks, Dave
Answer Hello Dave,
This sounds like possibly the combination of a couple of issues. First off, the symptoms sound like there is a bad connection somewhere. The issue that is irritating the first is the length of the duct. You see, a bad connection produces heat. Heat increases resistance which increases resistance. This increases amperage flow which increases heat which increases resistance. This is infinite until the electrical connection is lost entirely. The exhaust cannot exceed the equivalent of 25 feet. What this means is that each 90° elbow slows the air flow the same as 6 feet of straight ducting. So, you have to add 6 feet at every 90° turn plus the straight footage. The dryer drum is riding on felt seals. If a little too much back pressure is built up, the lint, heat, and moisture will simply blow past the drum seals back into the cabinet. This is actually where the air is taken into the unit and also where the thermostats are located. This causes the thermostats to open prematurely and this will extend the dry cycle.
The exhaust should be a 4 inch diameter rigid, non-flexible aluminum duct that is as short and straight as possible. You see, the shorter and straighter the duct is, the faster and easier it is for the unit to rid itself of the heat, lint, and moisture and the clothes will dry faster, the unit will use less electricity, and the dryer will last you longer since it isn't running a long time putting wear on the mechanical and electrical parts. All manufacturers strongly recommend against the flexible ducting whether it is plastic or the foil type. The flexible ducting crimps off the air flow too much when the unit is pushed back into place. It also holds lint which, when ignited, goes off like flash paper and will cherry inside the duct. The flexible duct will just melt through, (yes, even the foil type will just melt), and then you have the lint "cherryed up" in the floor.
A poor electrical connection is magnified by the excessive heat. I would check at the terminal block where the power cord connects to the back of the unit. All electrical connections inside the unit can be visually checked since a poor electrical connection will produce enough heat to discolor the connection.
What is the high limit temperature for this dryer?
Answer Hello, the high limit thermostat is rated at L240-40 and the part number is WE4M136. Thanks!
Getting power at the outlet but dryer will not start is this a thermal fuse issue??
Answer Hello John. You will need to check and see if the dryer has a bad thermal fuse on it. If so, it will cause the issues you are having. The thermal fuse WE4M137 should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Only the outside coil of my heating element heats up. Have checked for continuity on both coils. Get a reading of 19.9 on outside coil terminal and 19.7 on the inner coil terminal. Check all thermostats that showed continuity. It was mentioned that if all of these passed the tests it could be the timer. Any suggestions? Thanks - John
Answer John, We have to agree, it looks like the control WE4M296 . If the outer element is heating, all the thermostats Thermistors and temp. fuses are OK, The inner element power is controlled through the control board (K 5 relay) . You'll need to check the gray wire from control board to the element, if the wire is OK, you'll need the control board. Good Luck and Thanks
We've had this dryer for a while. When we set it on automatic dry it heats up fine but it runs forever without stopping. The clothes are overdrying. I think it's a thermal fuse or something else. Thanks!
Answer Hello David,
It sounds more like you have a ducting issue to me. You see, if the unit can't get rid of the moisture, it's blown past the felt drum seals and is recirculated across the clothes. The sensors sense the moisture again and the unit will run forever. When the sensors pick up the moisture, it keeps the timer motor from getting voltage so the timer never advances. You can check it with a Dryer Vent Test Kit 8522199. If you want to check the duct for problems without the kit, disconnect the duct from the unit and turn the unit on, set to an automatic cycle, and let it run for 5 minutes and the timer will advance if no problems with the unit exists.