My dryer takes a very long time to dry the clothes, it's seems that it may not be getting hot enough. What do you suggest? Thanks Joe
Answer Joe, First check the exhaust vent system and hood. Check and make sure there are no kinks or clogs in the pipe and the vent hood isn't blocked or crushed. If this has been an on going problem, you'll want to consider replacing the WE4M160 hi limit/safety thermostat. It could become weak and start cycling "early". This is a "safety" thermostat and shouldn't operate unless the dryer overheats.
Time drying on our dryer works fine, but if we run the 'Optimum Dry' cycle, the dryer will not shut off. It still heats, but does not shut off automatically when the clothes are dry. We like the 'Optimum Dry' better than timed dry. It seems to heat better and we don't have to run the clothes through 2 cycles to get them dry. Any ideas on what the problem might be? I would like to salvage this dryer and get a few more years out of it. Thanks.
The first thing that you should look at is the venting. Check to make sure that you have a clear vent from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of the home. The reason for this is on time dry it requires 2 cycles to completely dry. This should not be the case and should dry in 1. Essentially if the vent is clogged, in either case of timed or optimum dry, the unit will trap moisture and cause it to not dry in adequate amount of time. The other thing that could be the issue if the vent is clear would be faulty outlet thermostat on the blower housing which is part number WE4M127.
On the video the wires are a different color than mine. My wires are white, single blue, and a double blue with a short cord and a long cord. My husband connected the cords to the new heating element and turned the dryer on. After turning the dry on it begin to smoke. I would like to know which wires go where.
Answer Hello Makesha,
From the wiring diagram, the single blue wire connects to one of the small terminals, the double blue comers from the heating element and one end connects to the other small terminal and the other to a full sized terminal. The white wire goes on the other full sized terminal on the same thermostat.
Will not start. The belt is on. The door switch is good.
Answer Hello William,
If the voltage is provided to the unit properly and the push-to-start switch WE4M519, and the door switch WE4M415 are good, the timer WE4M533 will be the issue.
I have a GE 2008 electric clothes dryer that runs for 10 minutes and shuts off. What could this be?
Answer Hello Blw. If you have to wait to start the unit, you will need to order and replace the motor on the unit.
The dryer was not getting hot. Found broken coil in heat element. Just replaced the heat element with housing. I beleive I re-connected all the wires in the same spots as the old element. Now the dryer will not turn on at all. No drum spin nor heat. What could be the cause?
Answer Hello Jack,
Two things come immediately to mind. First, are all the wires reconnected to the door switch properly. Second, there is a belt switch in the base of the unit. If the belt isn't on or if the idler pulley arm isn't configured correctly, this switch can be the issue. If this switch isn't activated by the belt, the dryer will appear dead.
Dryer will not turn off on optimum setting. Any clue what may be broke? Ran all night twice.
Answer Hi. There is a timer resistor that needs to measure 4500 ohms cold. If it does not then replace the resister part # WE4M255. The timer motor itself has windings. Remove the timer part # WE4M533 motor wires and measure for resistance. Measure each lead to the metal case of the motor or the timer. If you get 0-ohms then it is shorted creating the timer to continuously run. Thank You.
Dryer heats up extremely hot and shuts off within 10 minutes and smells burnt?
Answer Hi Joe. Does the dryer get hot all the way to the top of the cabinet like it sounds like? Replace the plastic vent if you have one with rigid metal vent. Use a brick or a 2 x 4 to put at the back bottom of the dryer cabinet so when the unit is pushed back it does not crush the vent and kink it. Clean the outside vent cap so it opens and closes all by itself. So dew, rain and snow does not back up and cause a restriction. Then replace the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat part # WE4M181. They are located on top of the heater housing just above the heating element. The thermostat contacts are welded shut and the high limit is over working. Look at the heater and restring it because it was overheated and widened, shorting to the heater case. Heater part # WE11X10007. Clean the entire internal dryer with a shop vac. Thank You.