My 14 year old GE Profile Spectra convection oven is not heating up properly. When on convection bake, it says it's up to temperature but things bake noticeably more slowly than they used to. If it's heated up and we turn off the convection bake and switch to convection roast, the oven temperature reads colder than it just did on convection bake by 30 - 40 degrees. It is also having the same kind of problem on bake, but not as great a difference (off by 10 degrees when we switch to roast).
I did a resistance check on the oven sensor assembly (WB21T10007) and it shows 1105 Ohms. I'm not sure what to try next.
Answer Mark, The oven temp. sensor WB21T10007 Is a great place to start. It is not uncommon for sensor resistance to be in range at room temperature , and become erratic at the higher temperatures, especially after a self clean cycle. When you cancel a cycle and reprogram another, The display will show the actual oven temperature based on the sensor input. Replace the sensor, and check for an average oven bake temperature and calibrate the control. The temperatures in convection bake or roast are automatically lowered by the control, so you'll get a slightly lower temperature (25 dgrs. less) when used on the convection settings.
My large cook top burner does not get hot? How do you check the coils under the top?
The best way to determine if the issue is with the burner would be to pull the unit out and take the control panel back off and turn the burner to the on position. Check between h1 and h2 for that burner switch to see if there is 240 vac. If there is proper power then the element is faulty. If not then the switch is bad.
The time and temp for GE electric range will turn on but the burners in the oven will not get hot.
Answer Hello Lisa! If you can run a quick ohm test on the elements and determine that both are showing resistance, the culprit to your issue could part number WB27T11311. Thanks!
My oven will not heat up properly. I turn it on and it takes a good 30-40 minutes to reach 180 and then doesn't get any hotter. Three weeks ago we replaced the oven igniter because the oven wasn't getting hot at all. After installing the igniter, the oven worked for about a week and then we started having this new issue come up. Is it the oven sensor that needs replaced? thanks for your help.
This issue sounds like it could be an oven sensor issue and to see if it is you would do a resistance check ok the sensor. The resistance of the sensor should read at about 1090 ohms. If not then the sensor is faulty and would need to be replaced. If sensor checks ok then you will want to check the oven safety valve for 3.2 to 3.6 vac when turned to bake. If getting proper voltage then the safety valve is faulty and would need replaced.
Replaced board since nothing was coming on. Now all lights come on but the stove top and oven do not heat up. Noticed discoloration on wiring on the sensor assembly. Could this be the problem?
Answer Hello J.D.,
Since the surface and the bake compartment wiring are independent of one another, the issue is more likely to be with the power supply, (wall outlet or breaker), or at the terminal block where the power cord connects. If you need more specific information, a model number will be necessary.
Clock and all the lights work, but the burners don't work. Same thing with the oven. It was working fine this morning.
You will want to look at the power supply and look for power loss starting at that point. The issue sounds like you lost the L2 feed to the unit either from the breaker box or the plug in where the cord plugs up. The issue could also be a bad terminal block.
Bulb broke off in oven, forgot to unplug while trying to get bulb out and it caused the oven to not work. What do I need to replace and can I do it myself?
If the control board is not working after the trying to get the bulb out then it sounds like the control board may need to be replaced. The oven light is in line of the control board. Aside from checking the breakers the other cause would be a failed control board.