The gas oven would not let gas in, so check it found ignitor burnt through,change it,but gas still won't flow through,could control valve be bad ,checked voltage at valve from ignitor side when first turned on get 94vac then goes down to 74vac is this normal I thought it was to be about 3vac at that point can you help?thanks
Answer Billy, You're correct, once a bake setting is made and activated, the A/C voltage, should range between 3.2 and 3.6 VAC, across the two wires that are attached to the safety valve(it usually takes 30 to 60 seconds to reach the voltage). You can also remove the wires from the terminals on the safety valve and check for a "closed" circuit across the terminals. If the internal bi metal switch has shorted or "arced" you may get a partial or open circuit. Thanks
When using the right front burner (the main one) at medium to medium high heat, the right rear and left front burners spark continuously. Alternately, when using the right rear burner, the two front burners spark continuously also. Does the spark module need to be replaced? Or is it something more serious? Thanks!
Answer Hello Tina,
The more serious situation would be no sparking. As it stands, it sounds like you have probably dropped a ground to the surface burners. Think of it like this: When you turn on the gas valve a switch is also activated which turns on the spark module. The spark module starts "clicking". This is where the manufacturer has built in a safety device. This safety device actually makes all of the surface burners "click" at the same time. This is in case an untrained individual services the unit and mis-wires the start switches. If all of the surface burner ignitors "click" at the same time, there is no accumulation of gas in the room that can lead to a small but deadly explosion. The surface burner ignitors have to sense the resistance of the flame so the spark module will stop "clicking". If the ground is lost to the main top, as a safety measure, the ignitors will continue to spark to prevent the gas accumulation in the room since they aren't seeing the flame resistance.
To correct the issue, the top of the unit will need to be disassembled and all metal to metal surfaces that screw together will need to be cleaned, (sandpaper does the job great). This will restore the ground connect to the top and stop the clicking. If the issue only occurred on one surface burner, you would need to access the start switch on the gas valve for the particular surface burner and test the surface burner and replace if necessary.
By the using the volt/ohm meter how do we check the spark electrode to know if it is good or defective?
Answer Hello Kenny,
You can test the continuity of the spark electrode for the top burners by going tip to tip. If the ignitor is not working then you want to to check to see if it has cracks or if it is broken. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
What type of reading comes from the spark module to the spark electrode? Is it AC or DC and what is the value (amount)?
Answer Hello Kenny,
The spark module WB13K25 puts out High Voltage that cannot be read with a standard test meter. It puts out over 10KVac to each ignitor. Without a high voltage probe, this cannot be read. It will damage a standard volt/ohm meter.
Hi my range control panel or main control board are not working. I would like to buy this control panel. please advise.
Answer Hi Nathan, your control board or clock is part# WB27T10350. The control panel WB36K10098 is just trim. The overlay WB27K10011 for your clock is just a touchpad and is not electrical. The part number you posted this message on is the spark module [WB13K25]. Hope this helps!