Only one burner ignites and actually gets a spark. One other work intermittently and now never have a visable spark. Do I replace spark module right away, or check the ground as the other posting suggested. It is pretty involved to remove the top, so I would prefer not to do that?
If only one of the igniters is sparking on the entire cooktop then yes the spark module will most likely be the issue. If all but one are sparking then you would want to check for the grounded wire or check the spark switch to make sure that it has continuity when it is in the light position. If no continuity then the spark switch is faulty and will need to be replaced.
What is the part I need to replace the spark modulator?
Answer P, your model should read JGP336BEV2BB (BB instead of 88). The spark module is part number WB13K25. Thanks!
on the 2 stove top burners, 2 diagonal burners do not spark or light up.
I purchased 2 ceramic ignitors (WBK13K29914) and replaced them and it still does not spark or light up.
It it the spark modulator?
Answer Steve, You're going in the right direction, when you turn on any valve all the igniters should spark. You'll need to check the wires to the two igniters that don't spark, make sure they're not broken or shorted to the chassis and replace the spark module WB13T10046 if alls OK.
I have a GE profile cooktop (about 9 years old). one burner will not spark. I have replaced the ignitor, the switch assembly and the spark module (in that order). I inspected the wire going to the burner in question and it looks good, no evidence of burn, the insulation on the wire appears intact and is not hard or brittle. So far I think I just bought a lot of unneeded parts. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Answer Hello Bill,
When only one surface burner isn't working, it is normally because of a dropped ground. The ignitor has to have a good ground to spark to, as you know the circuit has to be complete back to ground. The cook top is made up of multiple steel parts, all screwed together. The way I usually restore normal operation is to remove all of the parts that are screwed together and use a piece of 120 grit sand paper to "clean" the surfaces that contact to complete the ground up to the ignitor area. This will solve the issue 99% of the time. The other 1% is a bad ignitor, start switch, or spark module. Since you have replaced them already, the ground will be the issue.
Constant sparking at all burners. Tried to "heat" the switches with a hair dryer, no luck, still sparks. Also tried to segregate each burner by disconnecting each , one by one, burner at the module. The sparks jumped across the module and couldn't determine which or if it is a switch on the harness of the spark ignition switches.
Please advise the proper item(s) needed to repair
Answer Richard, Disconnecting the electrode wires, is not going to pin point the problem. You need to test for 120 VAC on the end of the red wire at the spark module to chassis ground, with all the switches in the off position. If you have voltage on the wire, you have a bad switch and need the WB18T10366 switch abd harness assembly. If you have no voltage on the wire, then you need the spark module WB13T10046
While the left front burner is on the igniter continues to spark. Guessing it is the spark module. Can you advise? GE Profile J2S968SOH2SS.
Answer Hi. If one of the control valve spark switch is shorted then it will create non-stop ignition. It is part # WB18T10343. All 4- switches are daisy chained together to replace them all at once. Use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Disconnect the power and ohm out the switches one at a time by removing the wires and testing on the ohm R x 1 Scale for a open switch (Infinity- too great of a measurement to read) Physically in the off position. If it reads 0-ohms (0.1 /0.2 ohms) then it means the switch is shorted (already closed to allow the voltage to pass). In the off position the switch will read open(Infinity). In the on position it will read o-ohms or as close to it can as mentioned before. These are the normal parameters. Anything else means that the switch is shorted in the off position. If the units electrical plug was turned upside down, then the reverse polarity will create the same symptoms. Thank You.