Hi. I have a HE GSH25JFTA refrigerator. I need to replace the thermisters. Looks like I need WR55X10025, but I would like to confirm that is the correct part for the model and if there is a total of three for the appliance. Your customer service rep says two total, your video shows three total, and a customer review on the parts page refers to replacing four. Can you help me with that?
Answer Chris, there are two temp sensors in the freezer and two in the refrigerator section. If you view the Freezer Section, item number 241 and 243 are the temp sensors for those diagrams and on the Fresh Food Section and the Fresh Food Shelves section item number 242 is the temp sensor on those diagrams. This should help give you a brief idea of where they are located at. We do apologize for any confusion. Thanks.
I have a Kenmore HE2 front load washer and getting an F11 error code. A service technician came to my house verified the machine and told me that the problem was the MCU that it had to be replaced. Just received the MCU part and replaced it with the same result. Help please.
Answer Hello Ivan,
As per the tech sheet:
F11 - MOTOR CONTROL UNIT ERROR: The Motor Control Unit has internal failure; repeating under or over voltage, or over current conditions. If failure occurs during high-speed spin the door unlocks after 3 minutes. Possible Causes/Procedure: 1. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 2. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU). Check the motor and do a continuity test. 3. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 4. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor. 5. Check the drive motor for powered rotations. 6. If the tub never moves, Replace MCU board W10163007. If the tub does turn, replace the CCU W10525353.
Not Cooling at all. Just plain died on me.
Now, this refrigerator did pulled this same stunt about six months ago and came back and worked fine. I really wonder if this is a controls problem, rather than the sealed system. So I took some measurements and here is what I found so far.
Compressor seems to be vibrating very "quietly", as though it is not getting enough umphhh.
This Refrigerator apparently uses a compressor with a three-phase motor that is powered via an inverter (mounted on motor). And the inverter is signaled by the Main Board.
The Compressor has three pins, all of which show resistance of about 6.2 ohms, pin to pin any combination.
The Refrigerator fans and lights all seem to run fine.
When on, my fluke multimeter measures about 100V on the top two pins of the compressor. No way in hell to get to the other two pins when assembled.
The two "Power Input" pins on the inverter have 120 VAC, but the two pins for the control of the inverter (these two wires go to main board) have a pulsing voltage, roughly once per second, don't know what the hell that is all about.
The inverter has a label that says it is 120V input single phase, 230 V output three phase, variable frequency. I am guessing it is telling the compressor to mess around at lowest speed or something like that. Pet theory, but even if correct, is it the main board, or something lieing to the main board? Ought to be a way to trouble shoot this, but alas, I am stuck.
With the compressor running, if the fans are also running but the unit not cooling at all you will want to check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. If the coils have a frost pattern that is just barely there or on a couple of the coils then the issue would be a sealed system issue. If the coils have a nice even frost pattern from top to bottom then the issue is with air movement. If the coils are impacted with ice then you will want to test the defrost limiter and heater for continuity and check the resistance of the defrost sensor. If the heater or limiter do not have continuity then it is bad and would need to be replaced. If they check ok and the resistance of the sensor checks bad then replace the sensor and if all 3 check ok then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced.
The refrigerator is acting like a freezer, Changed the temperature sensor in the back of the freezer, changed the window between the freezer and refrigerator, changed the control panel in the refrigerator...... which of the three sensors control the window that I mentioned above..
If you replaced the damper on the upper left rear of the refrigerator compartment then the issue would be the main control board. The damper comes with the sensor that operates it. If the damper door is broken then it will cause this issue or if the thermistor is faulty it will cause the issue.
My freezer side is always frosting, regardless of temperature setting.
I had cleaned the coils and after 2 weeks the same problem. Is it the Temperature Sensor or the Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly the problem?
Also, I only see 1 temperature sensor on the freezer side, where are the other ones?
You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have replaced my defrost heater and defrost thermostat as they were both bad. However, I am continuing to have occasional defrost cycles where the freezer does not seem to fully exit defrost mode. The condenser seems to turn on, but the evaporator fan does not turn on, so the upper part of the freezer remains about 35 - 40 degrees, leaving the ice to slowly melt. It seems to stay this way for hours, until I unplug and plug it back in. Once it is reset, it functions fine, the fan turns on and the freezer quickly cools to single digit temperatures, and often even seems to go through a defrost cycle or two properly. I replaced the mainboard a few days ago, but I am still the same problem. I also *tried* to replace the evaporator thermistor. However, when I went to replace it, I discovered the old one wasn't attached to anything, the wires were simply dangling, and I don't see any wires that it could attach to. The old thermistor seems to be perfectly fine, according to my ohmeter, but I don't see anything to wire it to. Is it possible that my freeze/evaporator just doesn't use a thermistor? Is there anything else I can try/replace?
Your refrigerator does use the thermistor and should have wires that go back to where the fan motor would connect. The pins go into 2 openings of the gang plug that the evaporator fan motor goes to and plugs into the rear freezer wall. If the fan was ever replaced this may be the cause for the issue if the wrong fan was installed or if they installed the correct fan but did not reconnect the wires then this would be the issue. The fan motor that you would need that has the thermistor with it is part number WR60X10074.