Where are the thermistors located in regfrigerater model gss25qgsc bb? I was told there are 4 of them would like to replace all 4, but can only find the one located just above the freezer coils which is next to the thermostat.
There are a total of 3 or 4 thermistors for this unit. There is one on the evaporator, one down at the bottom of the freezer compartment next to where the drain is and one next to the damper in the refrigerator compartment. The last one in the refrigerator section would most likely be around the crisper drawer area.
There are coils in the refrig section of my side-by-side, and recently they have been frosting. When this happens, the temp in the refrig gets too warm (i.e., low 40s). The temp in the freezer will also get warmer, but the food in the freezer stays frozen. To fix, I have to defrost the coils in the refrig using a hair dryer. Once defrosted, the unit works like normal for 3-4 weeks and then the refrig coils freeze over again.
I've checked to see if the freezer section coils also freeze over. They do not. They remain very clean.
Any suggestions to make sure the refrig section coils stop freezing over?
Answer Hello Jeff. Dual Evaporator models, by design, create a high humidity environment in the fresh food section. Although this design improves the preservation of certain refrigerated foods, the potential exists in some units for an ice ball to form in the lower section of the compartment due to excessively cold temperatures and high humidity. The low temperatures are created by gaps around the beverage center duct and along the left side of the Custom Cool air handler cover. These locations can be sealed and the temperature improved using the service kit WR49X10180 (120V heater) or WR49X10175 (220V heater). Refer to the attached kit instructions for the proper repair method. The ice ball problem is being caused by very low temperatures in the lower left part of the fresh food compartment. The low temperatures are being driven by two gaps that need to be sealed. One around the beverage center duct and one along the left side curved geometry of the Quick Chill air handler cover.
These two locations need to be sealed with RTV. REMOVE POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE PERFORMING KIT INSTALL.
REMOVE ALL ICE AND MOISTURE FROM ALL REPAIR AREAS.
SOME 25 CU. FT. BIS MODELS DO NOT HAVE BEVERAGE CENTERS.
CHECK FOR WIRES ALREADY ROUTED WITH DC
(RIGHT FRONT) HARNESS IN FRESH FOOD COMPARTMENT. IF THERE ARE WIRES THERE, A DC KIT HAS BEEN INSTALLED. IF DC KIT WAS INSTALLED ALREADY, CONNECTION TO MAIN BOARD MUST BE REMOVED AND HARNESS CUT SHORT. Step 1
Remove the bottom three bins and lower shelf in the fresh food compartment. Remove any ice inside the fresh food side of the unit. Check under the quick chill assembly. Clean and dry the area, as well as the sump.
Remove the beverage center duct cover and the evaporator line cover. Remove the fresh food evaporator cover via the three (3) screws attaching it (Figure 1). Tilt the assembly out of the way of the beverage center duct. It is not necessary to disconnect the fans. Remove any ice present and dry the area thoroughly. Should Fresh Food Evaporator EPS Block or Air Return EPS Block become damaged in this process, utilize replacement pieces in kit. Step 3
Remove Beverage Center Duct and replace with new duct from kit, liberally applying RTV to seal Duct in place. RTV completely around the Duct including behind and below, smoothing on with finger is preferred method. Cover as much of the gasket area as possible (Figure 2). Install the EPS L-insert per Figure 2. Step 4
Apply a liberal bead of RTV along the space between the custom cool cover and the left sidewall (Figure 3).
Smooth to ensure a clean appearance. Step 5
Apply a liberal amount of RTV102 to the underside of the 3-watt AC heater assembly. Follow the INSIDE of the lip on the bottom of the heater assembly (Figure 4). Ensure the RTV will make contact around the entirety of the heater assembly when applied to the custom cool cover. Step 6
Position heater assembly on custom cool cover, making sure heater assembly is directly touching the left sidewall (Figure 5). Heater assembly should fit custom cool cover geometry snugly. Ensure that the heater assembly goes all the way back to the evaporator tube cover. Step 7
Apply aluminum tape to the front of the heater assembly. Starting back under the Quick Chill assembly and coming up the front of the heater assembly about 2.5” Keep the tape as close to the left side fresh food
wall as possible. Step 8
Cover aluminum tape with white vinyl tape. Step 9
Route heater wire under evaporator cover as far as possible for as little consumer exposure as possible. Step 10
Replace evaporator tube cover. Move evaporator cover back into position and replace screws. Remove the cold water reservoir plastic cover. Position the reservoir coils as clear of the right front DC grommet as possible. Step 11
Ensure power to unit is disconnected before drilling.
Check for Flow Meter wiring harness clearance in doghouse before drilling.
If the unit has precise fill feature, check for wire harness clearance in doghouse before drilling. If wires are in the way, adjust hole location accordingly.
Drill a 1/2" hole straight down into the machine compartment. Locate the hole in front of the right front DC grommet. Hole should be 1” in front of DC grommet edge and 2” from right liner wall. Drill perpendicular to the surface. Step 12
RTV around the underside of the grommet lip (Figure 10). Insert grommet into hole. Ensure it is pressed completely in, until the base of the grommet lip touches the fresh food floor surface. Clear excess RTV for clean appearance. Step 13
Use a wire tie to attach the heater wire to the AC harness (right rear harness) for strain relief inside the fresh food compartment. Clip off excess wire tie. Keep the spacing between the heater wire and the DC (right front) harness as large as possible (Figure 11). Step 14
Route the heater assembly wire down through the installed grommet. Fill inside of grommet around harness with RTV to prevent air leaks (Figure 12). Step 15
Reinstall all fresh food compartment components. Pull out unit. Remove machine compartment cover. Step 16
Remove the water valve assembly to provide clearance to connect wiring.
Use a wire tie to attach the heater wire to the AC harness as a strain relief in the machine compartment. Try to keep spacing between the heater wire and the rear entering DC harness as large as possible (Figure 13). Step 18
Use the bell/crimp style wire connectors to connect the heater wiring to the jumper harness (Figure 14). Step 19
Disconnect main power cord 6-pin connector. Place heater jumper harness in line (Figure 15). Coil excess wiring and wire tie. Tuck excess wiring back in machine compartment (Figure 16). Ensure that all harness connectors are secure; some may be loose from factory. Step 20
Apply power back to unit and ensure both unit and heater are operational. Listen for compressor and feel heater with back of hand. Heater surface will be slightly warmer than surrounding left wall surface. Go back and ensure that heater assembly is directly touching the left sidewall. Heater may have shifted during wire routing.
Replace cover on machine compartment. Ensure that no wires are being pinched between the cover and the case back. Replace unit to original position in home.
Remove plate covering water tube to the filter (Figure 17). RTV sealing the tubes to the foam to prevent any possible air leaks. Step 23
Check gasket around fresh food door and freezer door for tears or gasket rollover. Repair/replace as necessary.
I have GE side by side refrigerator that doesn't hold its temperature. I replaced the mother computer board but the temperature continues to move +one to 5 degrees on the freezer side which causes the ice to melt to creating some icecycles. The refrigerator side is pretty consistent changes just +one degrees. I try to use the panel to adjust the temperature back to 0 and 37 respectively but that seems to not always work. Thanks for your help
You will want to check the thermistors in the unit, which you will check off the main control board. You would check the resistance for the thermistors which should be 42.2k Ohms @ 0 degrees, 14.4K Ohms @ 37 degrees and 5K Ohms @ 77 degrees. You will need to know the actual temperature of the refrigerator and will want to check by placing a thermometer in each section on the center most part of the unit. If the thermistors do not read properly then replace the thermistors.
Both the refridgerator side, and freezer side will not cool. The motor is running, and I have unplugged it and plugged it back in. Also I have cleaned the coils. Both sides are currently at room temp.
You will need to check to see if the compressor is running. If the compressor is not running, at the main control board, verify power going to the compressor and also check at the compressor by testing across the wires on the start relay and overload. If there is power there then the most likely cause of failure is the start relay WR07X10025 in which you would want to replace the overload WR08X10025 at the same time. If there is no power from the board then you would need to replace the control board.
I have a GE refrigerator. It is always working and in 2 or 3 days it freezes up and makes ice in the coil. How do I fix that or what is the problem or part wrong with it?
Answer Hello Eric,
This will be one of several parts. The most common to fail is the defrost heater WR51X10055. The other parts that could cause this are the defrost thermostat WR50X10068 the main control board WR55X10942 and the sensors WR55X10025. There are actually three of the sensors but the one on the evaporator assembly is the one that would affect the defrost.
i have a frigadaire gallery that is not running cold enough to keep the milk fresh, i have adjusted the control , but still it isn't cold enough what part may i need to fix this issue
It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
What should the ohm reading be for part # wr55x10025?
Answer Hello Donna. The Sensor resistance should be as follows: 42.2K ohms @ 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K... more ohms @ 77 degrees. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html