24/7 Customer Support

CHECKOUT
Items in Cart:
Total
$0.00

Customer Questions and Answers for Temperature Sensor by GE

  1. Our Price $8.42
    Compare At $17.38
    You Save $8.96
     Watch Video
    • Part Number: AP3185407
    • MFG Part Number: WR55X10025
    • Made by: GE
    Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For GE Temperature Sensor (Part Number: AP3185407)

Ask a Question

Most Interesting  |  Latest Questions

Hi. I have a HE GSH25JFTA refrigerator. I need to replace the thermisters. Looks like I need WR55X10025, but I would like to confirm that is the correct part for the model and if there is a total of three for the appliance. Your customer service rep says two total, your video shows three total, and a customer review on the parts page refers to replacing four. Can you help me with that?

Chris for Model Number GSH25JFTA

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore HE2 front load washer and getting an F11 error code. A service technician came to my house verified the machine and told me that the problem was the MCU that it had to be replaced. Just received the MCU part and replaced it with the same result. Help please. Thanks

Ivan for Model Number 110.47512600

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

I bought a house with this refrigerator in it so I don't know the history of it. I do know it was new in 2007. When I plugged it in it appeared to be working fine. when I returned in a few days it was dead. That means no lights working, nothing. When I unplugged it and plugged it back in I had 1/2 second of power to the lights before it was dead again. I could hear a clicking noise in the defrost timer every time I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I replaced the defrost timer and the power stayed on and the frig appeared to be working. A few hours later I checked it and the walls inside the freezer around the top near the ice maker were hot. Not warm, hot. I could feel cold air coming out near the bottom inside the freezer but it wasn't enough to compete with the heat coming from the walls in the upper part of the freezer. I removed the appliance lights to rule out heat coming from them. It is not coming from the light bulbs. The compressor is running and so is the condenser fan, all are nice and clean. I'm not sure if the evaporator fan in the freezer was working, I will have to check that. I wondered if the defrost heater was stuck on or the defrost limiter was keeping the heater on but I think the heat would be felt lower in the freezer, not in the walls at the top. Now I'm wondering if it is the mother board. I don't see a defrost timer in the diagrams for this refrigerator so I'm wondering if the previous owner tried to fix a mother board problem by adding a defrost timer. I also see that the previous owner wrote down the ice maker information as if he did or was going to replace the ice maker. This is the area of the heat problem so maybe it is caused by the ice maker. Any help would be appreciated. The frig is too nice looking to trash it.

Larry for Model Number GE model GSS20IETAWW

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

My freezer is -5 my fridge side is 60. I replaced bad defroster heater and the thermal switch. This unit is building up ice on the bottom and freezing solid over the drain hole. I removed the back cover and the coils are not frosted up and the fan does run fine. The freezer is holding - 5 set on 4 the fridge side stays at 50-60 no matter where I set the control. I am getting plenty of cold air blowing through the bottom meat pan air control. I can turn this off for 2 hours then plug back in and it will work fine for a day or two.

Robert H for Model Number gss20iembcc

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

Not Cooling at all. Just plain died on me. Now, this refrigerator did pulled this same stunt about six months ago and came back and worked fine. I really wonder if this is a controls problem, rather than the sealed system. So I took some measurements and here is what I found so far. Compressor seems to be vibrating very "quietly", as though it is not getting enough umphhh. This Refrigerator apparently uses a compressor with a three-phase motor that is powered via an inverter (mounted on motor). And the inverter is signaled by the Main Board. The Compressor has three pins, all of which show resistance of about 6.2 ohms, pin to pin any combination. The Refrigerator fans and lights all seem to run fine. When on, my fluke multimeter measures about 100V on the top two pins of the compressor. No way in hell to get to the other two pins when assembled. The two "Power Input" pins on the inverter have 120 VAC, but the two pins for the control of the inverter (these two wires go to main board) have a pulsing voltage, roughly once per second, don't know what the hell that is all about. The inverter has a label that says it is 120V input single phase, 230 V output three phase, variable frequency. I am guessing it is telling the compressor to mess around at lowest speed or something like that. Pet theory, but even if correct, is it the main board, or something lieing to the main board? Ought to be a way to trouble shoot this, but alas, I am stuck. Any help?

Les for Model Number GSH22JFXLWW (General Electric)

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

The refrigerator is acting like a freezer, Changed the temperature sensor in the back of the freezer, changed the window between the freezer and refrigerator, changed the control panel in the refrigerator...... which of the three sensors control the window that I mentioned above..

Ivor Lynch for Model Number GSS25VGMA WWW

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

My freezer side quits freezing to the point it melts all the ice in the ice compartment. And the temp indicator in the fridge side that you can control shows the air temp in freezer to be to warm to freeze anything . Do I need to replace the temp sensor or circuit panel?

John O for Model Number ZFSB25DTB SS

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

The freezer fan in my refrigerator will not run. What can stop this fan from working?

Sinclair for Model Number nss25gftaww

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

My freezer side is always frosting, regardless of temperature setting. I had cleaned the coils and after 2 weeks the same problem. Is it the Temperature Sensor or the Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly the problem? Also, I only see 1 temperature sensor on the freezer side, where are the other ones? Thanks.

Manny for Model Number GE model # PSS26MSW

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

I have replaced my defrost heater and defrost thermostat as they were both bad. However, I am continuing to have occasional defrost cycles where the freezer does not seem to fully exit defrost mode. The condenser seems to turn on, but the evaporator fan does not turn on, so the upper part of the freezer remains about 35 - 40 degrees, leaving the ice to slowly melt. It seems to stay this way for hours, until I unplug and plug it back in. Once it is reset, it functions fine, the fan turns on and the freezer quickly cools to single digit temperatures, and often even seems to go through a defrost cycle or two properly. I replaced the mainboard a few days ago, but I am still the same problem. I also *tried* to replace the evaporator thermistor. However, when I went to replace it, I discovered the old one wasn't attached to anything, the wires were simply dangling, and I don't see any wires that it could attach to. The old thermistor seems to be perfectly fine, according to my ohmeter, but I don't see anything to wire it to. Is it possible that my freeze/evaporator just doesn't use a thermistor? Is there anything else I can try/replace?

Kris Z for Model Number PSS26LSRE SS

Answer

Was this helpful?

1 Answer

 

 
 
We are Safe, Secure, Dependable and Trusted
  • BizRate.com Customer Certified Site - Click to Verify