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Customer Questions and Answers for Temperature Sensor by GE

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    • Part Number: AP3185407
    • MFG Part Number: WR55X10025
    • Made by: GE
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Questions & Answers

For GE Temperature Sensor (Part Number: AP3185407)

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I changed 2 temperature sensors but it is working and doesn't stop. What could be the problem? Thanks

Miguel for Model Number GSS20IBPC CC

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Intermittent problem, since this issue occurred the control board has been replaced. This last time the heater and encoder was replaced after using a blow dryer to melt the ice on the coils and fan motor. About a week and half the coils froze again. Any suggestions? John

John for Model Number GSS22JEMCCC

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The food section is not getting cold temp 50, freezer is ok -12, What could be wrong? Thanks

Ed for Model Number ge monogram zis420nma

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Do you have a video for a GE refrigerator on top with freezer on the bottom to replace the temperature sensor? Or could you send me info on how to do it. I have the new sensor and my tools ready. Everyone does a side by side that doesn't help me. Thanks

Teresa for Model Number pdf22mfsbww

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I have a GE PSS25SGNA/SS. The unit works great when I first plug it in, but after a few days, starts to experience wide temperature swings. Eventually water and ice are building up in the freezer section. I have already replaced the board, and did not clip or make any modifications, as my specific model was not called out. Since it seems fine when I first plug it in (temperature falls to set points), I'm thinking the issues may be around the defrost cycle. So I was thinking of replacing the defrost sensor. While I'm in there I think it would be smart to replace the other temperature sensor(s) since the unit is 12 years old. How many do I have, and is this a good idea? Do you think I'm on the right track with the defrost sensor?

Skiz for Model Number PSS25SGNABS

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Hi. I have a HE GSH25JFTA refrigerator. I need to replace the thermisters. Looks like I need WR55X10025, but I would like to confirm that is the correct part for the model and if there is a total of three for the appliance. Your customer service rep says two total, your video shows three total, and a customer review on the parts page refers to replacing four. Can you help me with that?

Chris for Model Number GSH25JFTA

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I have a Kenmore HE2 front load washer and getting an F11 error code. A service technician came to my house verified the machine and told me that the problem was the MCU that it had to be replaced. Just received the MCU part and replaced it with the same result. Help please. Thanks

Ivan for Model Number 110.47512600

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I bought a house with this refrigerator in it so I don't know the history of it. I do know it was new in 2007. When I plugged it in it appeared to be working fine. when I returned in a few days it was dead. That means no lights working, nothing. When I unplugged it and plugged it back in I had 1/2 second of power to the lights before it was dead again. I could hear a clicking noise in the defrost timer every time I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I replaced the defrost timer and the power stayed on and the frig appeared to be working. A few hours later I checked it and the walls inside the freezer around the top near the ice maker were hot. Not warm, hot. I could feel cold air coming out near the bottom inside the freezer but it wasn't enough to compete with the heat coming from the walls in the upper part of the freezer. I removed the appliance lights to rule out heat coming from them. It is not coming from the light bulbs. The compressor is running and so is the condenser fan, all are nice and clean. I'm not sure if the evaporator fan in the freezer was working, I will have to check that. I wondered if the defrost heater was stuck on or the defrost limiter was keeping the heater on but I think the heat would be felt lower in the freezer, not in the walls at the top. Now I'm wondering if it is the mother board. I don't see a defrost timer in the diagrams for this refrigerator so I'm wondering if the previous owner tried to fix a mother board problem by adding a defrost timer. I also see that the previous owner wrote down the ice maker information as if he did or was going to replace the ice maker. This is the area of the heat problem so maybe it is caused by the ice maker. Any help would be appreciated. The frig is too nice looking to trash it.

Larry for Model Number GE model GSS20IETAWW

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My freezer is -5 my fridge side is 60. I replaced bad defroster heater and the thermal switch. This unit is building up ice on the bottom and freezing solid over the drain hole. I removed the back cover and the coils are not frosted up and the fan does run fine. The freezer is holding - 5 set on 4 the fridge side stays at 50-60 no matter where I set the control. I am getting plenty of cold air blowing through the bottom meat pan air control. I can turn this off for 2 hours then plug back in and it will work fine for a day or two.

Robert H for Model Number gss20iembcc

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Not Cooling at all. Just plain died on me. Now, this refrigerator did pulled this same stunt about six months ago and came back and worked fine. I really wonder if this is a controls problem, rather than the sealed system. So I took some measurements and here is what I found so far. Compressor seems to be vibrating very "quietly", as though it is not getting enough umphhh. This Refrigerator apparently uses a compressor with a three-phase motor that is powered via an inverter (mounted on motor). And the inverter is signaled by the Main Board. The Compressor has three pins, all of which show resistance of about 6.2 ohms, pin to pin any combination. The Refrigerator fans and lights all seem to run fine. When on, my fluke multimeter measures about 100V on the top two pins of the compressor. No way in hell to get to the other two pins when assembled. The two "Power Input" pins on the inverter have 120 VAC, but the two pins for the control of the inverter (these two wires go to main board) have a pulsing voltage, roughly once per second, don't know what the hell that is all about. The inverter has a label that says it is 120V input single phase, 230 V output three phase, variable frequency. I am guessing it is telling the compressor to mess around at lowest speed or something like that. Pet theory, but even if correct, is it the main board, or something lieing to the main board? Ought to be a way to trouble shoot this, but alas, I am stuck. Any help?

Les for Model Number GSH22JFXLWW (General Electric)

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