Questions and Answers for GE WR50X10065 Thermostat Def

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What would you suggest I change for this model the control board or defrost t/stat for freezing up. It has froze up twice in a months time. It does have the automatic defrost. Thanks for the help

Joel for Model Number gsh25jfta-ww

Answer Hello Joel. You will need to test the heater WR51X10055 and defrost thermostat. The should read closed for continuity when cold. If they are good, then you will need to replace the control board WR55X10942. You can test the heater and defrost thermostat with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Is there a automatic defrost timer on my refrigerator and where is it located?

Joel for Model Number Ge model gsh25jfta-ww

Answer Hello Joel! The defrost is controlled by the main control board WR55X10942 located on the back of the refrigerator. Hope this helps!

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Frig wasn't cooling so after removing cover in freezer I found coils all covered in frost. Is this a defrost thermostat issue? My fan is working, and when I recently defrosted frig in a cleaning, frig was cold for about a week. I'm trying to decide which part to replace first, the defrost thermostat, defrost heater or the defrost timer. Thanks for your help, Patty

Patty for Model Number gsh25jfxb

Answer Hello Patty. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Ice forms in the freezer box and freezes the crusher/cube solenoid It seems that ice forms in the back of the freezer cabinet and is all over the back of the box after a bit. It also freezes the solenoid plunger for the crushed/cubed ice device. Thus the ice crusher when it works only dispenses crushed ice. Not sure why this ice forms, but it causes a mess. Also, the ice in the ice storage tray refreezes in big chunks and thus does not dispense ice. In addition we have replaced all of the temperature sensors in the refrigerator and replaced the motherboard for the refrigerator. What causes this? Thanks,

Carl for Model Number GSL25IGXBLS

Answer Hello Carl. You will need to check and see if the solenoid assembly WR62X10055 is bad in the dispenser and needs to be replaced on the unit. This will cause the issue you are having with the unit.

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I recently asked a question about the defrost thermostat for this GE freezer. I tested a new one before installing it and it would only open when it reached a very high temperature. Since I'm accustomed to similar thermostats opening around 55 F, I thought it was defective. I couild not find the specifications for the replacement thermostat anywhere. I pulled out the old one and found the labeling on it. To my surprise, it was marked 140 F. I see a lot of these GE fridges with defrost problem the same as mine (freezer works fine, but defrost cycle seems to run long and melt the ice....ice cubes are always frozen into a large block). So....here's my question. Is this just poorly designed? would a lower temp thermostat fix this problem? BTW, I've also tested the thermistors; they appear to be good (18K ohm cold with steady decrease to below 3 K ohm when warmed). I hate to spend $150 for a new control board because, based on other customers' experiences I don't have much faith that it will fix the problem. This is driving me crazy. Please help!

Dan for Model Number GE GSH25JFXBWW

Answer Hello Dan, The defrost thermostat is actually an overtemp thermostat. The resistance reading for the thermistor should be at 0 degrees 42.5K ohms, at 37 degrees 14.0K ohms and at 77 degrees 4.92K ohms. Which would mean that when you tested the thermistor WR55X10025 the temp was approximately 30 degrees. You want to check the thermistor from the control board with the thermistor in place with ice around it. This will give you the most accurate reading. Also check your defrost heater WR51X10055 to make sure that it is good. Check it for continuity.

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I bought a replacement defrost thermostat (WR50X10065) for my GE refrigerator. I tested it before ripping my fridge apart, and the thermostat read less than 1 ohm cold or warm. I assumed that it was bad, so I ordered another one. The next one tested the same way. Being quite perplexed, I heated the thermostat more than using a cup of hot water (my first test method). This time I used a heat gun and the thermostat eventually opened. It was so hot that I could barely hold it. I can't find any specifications for this particular thermostat online, but I wouldn't think it should require THAT much heat to open. Exactly how much heat should it take to open this thermostat??

Dan

Answer Hello Dan, The evaporator thermistor controls the defrost and how long it stays in defrost. The defrost thermostat is a limit thermostat and has a rating of 140-110 degrees. You would want to check the thermistor and at 0 degrees should read 62.79k ohms of resistance. At 37 degrees it will read 24.48K and at 77 degrees it will read 10K. This is on a control board model GE refrigerator. With model number we can give more information. To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

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Regarding my previous question on access to replace the freedzer temperature sensor (Thermister) and Thermostat -- If I understand correctly, I gain acces from inside the freezer area by removing the back wall. Is this correct? Many thanks!

Tommy for Model Number GSL25JFTABS

Answer Hi Tommy. Yes, all the parts you are about to replace will be in the freezer. You have to put your food in laundry baskets with towels on top. They should suffice until your repair is complete.Remove the ice bin first, dump the cubes and turn the bin upside down outside so the water will completely dry. Then shut off the ice maker. With a towel remove the light bulb. Take the shelves out lying them in order to put them back in correctly. Concentrate on the bottom half of the back wall removal. Remove a green ground clip that must be reinserted upon reassembly. The defrost thermostat is on the 5/16" copper line on the rt.upper side. Make sure you clamp it on so the defrost thermostat reads "line" temp. Hope this helps . Thank you.

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As a follow-on to my previous questions on over-thawing in the freezer compartment --- In reading some of the other posts, I see where some of the Motherboards for this model refrigerator require cuting of the Thermistor leads. If my serial number is ZSL..., do I need to cut those leads? My new motherboard did not come with instructions, but it was pretty easy to figure out how it went in. Now, since I did not cut those leads on the new motherboard, I was/am still having the same issue and was told to replace the Thermostat and Temperature sensors that sit in the evaporator area. Problem is, I can not figure out how to get into the compartment where these parts are located. It seems I need to go in through the area just behind the motherboard. I can take out the motherboard, but cannot get the housing into which it mounts to come out. Two big rubber plugs through which the wiring all runs do not want to rotate to release the housing are seemingly the biggest part of the problem. The other problem is the housing just does not seem to want to budge even if I could get the rubber plugs out. It seems to be glued to the refrigerator framework. Do I need a special tool to release the rubber plugs through which the wires all run? Do I need to do something special to un-glue the housing from the refrigerator case? Am I doing it all wrong in the first place??? Tommy

Tommy A. for Model Number GSL25JFTABS

Answer Hi Tommy. You will need to change 2 parts in the freezer area. Pull off the back inner wall and replace these parts. They are what controls the defrost and monitor the temperatures in the cavity. The defrost thermostat is clipped on the incoming sealed system tube above the evaporator. Cut the wire off the old defrost thermostat as close to the device as you can so you will have enough wire to work with. The same as the thermistor. Replace it using(saving) the origional wire cut off close to the device. The defrost thermostat is part # WR50X10065. The thermister is part # WR55X10025. Thank you.

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I have had problems with the freezer defrost system. It comes on and melts down the ice in the ice maker to the extent that when it starts back up again it crates a block of ice that will not move through the ice dispensing system. It even freezes up the auger motor. At your suggestion, I replaced the "Mother Board." NO JOY. Same problem exists. Is there a sensor in the freezer compartment that is causing too much defrosting to occur, or what???? HELP PLEASE! I don't want to spend anothe $100+ on this refrigerator.

Tommy A. for Model Number GSL25JFTABS

Answer Hi tommy. There is also a thermistor on top of the evaporator area that controls tempertaure. This part # is [AP3185407. This part along with the defrost thermostat should be changed together to insure proper temperature sensing. Thank you.

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Things go from rock hard to soft in the freezer. The ice in the bucket melts then freezes together. Now I have noticed that the temp controls on the door randomly change. I have replaced the main board and that did not fix the problem. Any other suggestions?? Thanks

Joel P. for Model Number GE - GSL25JFTA

Answer Hello Joel. You will need to check and make sure the evaporator fan motor WR60X10185 is running properly. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html

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