I purchased a timer plastic shaft we4m357. I don't remember where to place the wires. The letters on the timer are c, b, a, x, t, f. The wires are black, white, b&w, violet and one of them are hook together (2) either black or brown hard to tell. The paper work with the dryer shows all the parts but doesn't indicate this info as far as I can tell.
The wiring for the timer is as follows: The A terminal will have the purple wire which goes to the selector switch. The B terminal will have a black wire which is the L1 in. The F terminal would be white which goes to the gas coils. The S would be a black wire from the End of Cycle signal. X would be the Yellow black or Black and white to the motor switch. C would have what looks to be a double brown which goes to the start switch and motor.
A man was here to fix my washer and then the dryer went. Well the timer will not move 20min 30min so on and the heat is so low. He told us that it is the timer it is like it is only working on 110 not 220. The back plate in side the dryer will get hot if on long time but it will not dry any thing. All vents are clean.
Answer Hello Lorene,
The timer on unit is only going to work off 120 vac not 220. You can test the timer using a multi-meter. On Normal time cycle you should have 120vac between the following terminals: T to X (timer), B to C (Motor) and A to B (Heater). If you have 120 vac to the heater but not heating properly then you will want to check the thermostats, thermal fuse and the heater to make sure that they are good. With 120 vac to the timer motor which is 2 black wires coming off motor and motor is not advancing then you would need a new timer.
My dryer doesn't start. I ordered the start swith from you. I replaced it but still the machine doesn't work. Please let me know what could be the problem.
Answer Hello Sergio,
I would check the door switchWE4M415. You want to use a multi meter across the terminals on the door switch. With the door switch pushed in, it should show the switch in a closed position. With the door switch not pushed in it should read open. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html