when washer spins it has a growling noise what bearing is it
Answer Texas, There is only one tub bearing WH2X1197 located on the bottom of the outer tub assembly. But you will need other associated parts WH02X10032, WH2X1199, WH02X10265, WH45X10027. These parts usually get damaged or distorted during the teardown of the tub assemblies to access the bearing. Not to mention the special wrench, needed to remove the hub nut. Thanks for allowing APP to assist you and Good Luck.
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Have grease in tub. What needs replacing?
Answer Hello Man. You will need to order and replace the transmission WH38X10002 in the unit if grease is leaking from it into the tub assembly.
How do I know if the Transmission and Brake assembly on my GE WHSB8000B0CC is bad? The motor spins freely but the Transmission and Brake assembly does not rotate easily after removing the belt. I'm assuming it's the Transmission and Brake assembly and/or the tub bearing. We really like this washer and would like to fix it as long as it's not cost prohibitive. Thanks, Luis
Answer Hello Luis,
This sounds like the brake assembly on the transmission WH38X10002 is failing to release. This is a situation requiring the replacement of the transmission assembly since the brake assembly is made on the transmission at the factory. You will not be able to tell if it's the brake or the spin bearing until you remove the tub assembly and the brake assembly is unbolted so the spin bearing is the only part there to spin. I researched this for quite some time and GE just doesn't give any good diagnostic procedure to determine between the brake failure and the spin bearing failure. As a repair technician myself, I just pull the insides out and check with the brake disconnected.
I need to replace the Tub Bearing for my GE Washer Model # WCSE4160B1ww. I can't figure out how to remove the top part of the agitator to get to the bolt. I've read using a screw driver and pry off the top or simply pulling. I don't want to break it getting it off. Any suggestions. Thanks.
Answer Pat, The agitator WH43X10034 is a "snap" lock fit onto the agitator coupling WH49X10042 . You grasp the bottom of the agitator with your fingers and lift or snatch up, the agitator locking tabs should relese and you can lift the agitator up and out. You can also use an old belt, length of rope, or tie down strap, slip it under the agitator, and pull up on the belt or strap, you may have to do this two or three times, around the circumference of the agitator bottom, to braek it loose from the coupling.
My agitator is bad, (the top piece is about to fall off), so I will be ordering it. I also pulled the spline adapter off and it is full of grease under it. Is there a seal that can replaced to fix this or is this a transimission issue? The only noise we have noticed is the agitator flopping around. The spline adapter looks good except being full of grease.
Answer Hello Tim,
The good news is that there is no grease in a washing machine. There is transmission oil, but when it leaks, it generally goes down and gets in the floor. What you are seeing is more than probably fabric softener build-up. You see, fabric softener is made of 80% to 90% animal fat. The remaining content is coloring and perfumes to mask the substances decomposition. Therefore, when the softener is dispensed, being that animal fat it is "clingy", a lot of it accumulates inside the agitator.
Now if you want to conduct an experiment, Put a drop of softener on top of the washer or dryer and let it set there for a while. It starts out blue from the bottle and slowly turns colors. It will turn green, then yellow, then brown, and eventually black. Now if you wipe it up at any stage, it will still smell like softener as it is very heavily perfumed.
The whole problem with this picture is that, while it is "clingy", it cannot hold on forever. When a chunk breaks free and gets into the wash, it will stain like oil or grease. The solution is to dilute the softener before it is ever put into the dispenser cup. This way it is dispensed more completely, without as much build-up. As far as the build-up that is now present, without removing the agitator you can run a sanitation cycle with hot water and white vinegar to release it and flush it away. If you would like to remove the agitator top remove the build-up, using a 1/4 inch socket or nut driver, loosen the set screw on the side of the agitator and the agitator will slide right out. Again, white vinegar is the best thing I have found to remove the residue. If you heat it up and use a brush it will remove it more readily. Rubbing alcohol will work, but the fact that it is flammable always deters me from its' usage.