My dehumidifier doesn't remove moisture. The fan runs and the compressor is very hot. The evaporator and condenser are clean. I've replaced the sensor assembly. Could it be the drawing capacitor? It's not bulging, looks ok but not tested. Thanks
Answer Hello Ray,
This sounds like a sealed system restriction. If the compressor cannot circulate the freon, it pressurizes the high side and draws the low side into a vacuum. This makes the compressor run at an above normal temperature and with no freon circulation within the sealed system, it cannot transfer heat as designed. Unfortunately, this makes it cheaper to buy a new unit than to repair.
My dehumidifier has 4 dashes where the numbers should be. I have taken the unit apart to see if there was a reset button any where no luck. A post that I saw said to replace the capacitor. Your thoughts ?
It is a possibility that the capacitor could be the issue. You will want to pull the capacitor and test it per the specs on the side. You will want to discharge the capacitor before testing. Also check to make sure that the bucket full switch is not stuck and check to make sure that there are no loose or disconnected wires. If this checks ok then you will want to replace the control board.
This dehumidifier is approximately 6 years old. I went to use it, turned it on and it sounded ok. I heard the compressor kick in. Came back later no water had been produced. Is the compressor bad? If so, can it be replaced if so what do they cost?
Answer Hello P.J.,
If you heard the compressor come on and no water has been produced, the issue is most likely a corroded evaporator coil and freon loss. In the case of a freon loss in a dehumidifier, it is normally much cheaper to replace the unit than to replace the evaporator, heat exchange assembly (capillary lines), filter/drier, and compressor. These are normally the components that require replacement in this issue. The labor alone for a sealed system repair is comparable to the replacement cost of the unit.
After turning on dehumidifier, it will run and everything sounds normal for the first 10-15 seconds. Then the sound wavers a bit and it will trip the GFCI. Unplug it and reset GFCI and it will repeat the above again. I tried it on a different GFCI circuit with the same results. Once, it tripped the breaker instead of the GFCI. I am wondering if it could be this capacitor and am wondering a good test procedure for the capacitor with a meter. Does the fan start first, before the compressor? I am wondering if it is when the compressor tries to start that it trips the GFCI? Thank you.
Answer Hi Harry. The best thing is to remove the condenser and evaporator covers carefully to clean the coils and fan blades. If they are clogged or the fan cannot turn efficiently. Yes the evaporator fan part # 4681A20040G runs always with the compressor. You can use a Supra Capacitor Checker available at a HVAC Supply store. It has a simple L.E.D. readout that will tell the tolerance of the capacitor. You can use an analog ohm meter and see our website to explain the proper procedure. The capacitor is part # 0CZZA20005J. It can be that the compressor windings part # 2520UCBA004 have shorted and it is tripping the breaker. The volt meter is part # TJMA-DM1. Thank You.
Kenmore dehumidifer is running except doesn't dry the humidity in room. The air is cold, not warmer like before. What is cause? Is capacitor blow out? Hope not compressor! Thanks.
Answer Hello Sherri. Check and see if there is power coming to the compressor. If not, you have a bad control board 3551A10024B. This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part. If there is power there, you have a bad compressor [AP5171885]. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html