My LG gas dryer get too hot. Could it be the thermostat?
The most likely cause for the dryer getting to hot would be a faulty thermistor 6323EL2001B.
Hello, I have replaced this igniter L-G AP4439620 (5318EL3001A) Dryer ignitor and still no heat. It doesn't light up at all. What next? I have a volt meter can I test?
Answer Michael, You need to test the "flame sensor" 6501EL3001A at room temperature (cold) there should be a "closed" circuit across the two brass terminals with the wires removed. If the circuit is open when cold, there is not a completed circuit on the neutral side of the switch and the igniter will not glow, and the gas valve coils will not open to release and ignite the gas.
My dryer takes a long time to dry the clothes, sometimes 8 hours. The dryer does not get hot enough, you can hear the flame come on for about 30 seconds and then is off for about 1.5 minutes and then the flame is on for 5 seconds off for 15 seconds and on again for 30 seconds. How hot should the dryer get? What should I test or what should I replace.
Answer Hello Greg,
This doesn't sound like the dryers' fault at all since the clothes can be air fluffed dry with no heat at all in a couple of hours time. This has to be a ducting issue. You see, the heat doesn't dry the clothes. If the heat dried the clothes, you could put them in the microwave and have them done in a few minutes. All this will get you though is hot, wet, clothes. The air flow is what actually carries the moisture away from the clothes. The heat is an assistance to the air flow so the air flow can more easily carry the moisture away from the clothes. If the unit has an air flow restriction, the thermostats will quick cycle and will take a long time to reset and turn the heating element back on. This always makes the customer think the unit isn't drying properly.
Even if the unit has worked in the installation for a long time, this is no indication that there hasn't been a change with the ducting. The first thing I would do is check outside at the flapper door. If the flapper cannot open, or if there is a screen at the flapper that is stopped up, this will cause the issue. If the ducting is flexible, it can fill with water under the house or the flex duct can be crimped behind the unit if the unit has been pushed back against the wall.
The exhaust cannot exceed the equivalent of 25 feet. What this means is that each 90° elbow slows the air flow the same as 6 feet of straight ducting. So, you have to add 6 feet at every 90° turn plus the straight footage. The dryer drum is riding on felt seals. If a little too much back pressure is built up, the lint, heat, and moisture will simply blow past the drum seals back into the cabinet. This is actually where the air is taken into the unit and also where the thermostats are located. This causes the thermostats to open prematurely and this will extend the dry cycle. The exhaust should be a 4 inch diameter rigid, non-flexible aluminum duct that is as short and straight as possible. You see, the shorter and straighter the duct is, the faster and easier it is for the unit to rid itself of the heat, lint, and moisture and the clothes will dry faster, the unit will use less electricity, and the dryer will last you longer since it isn't running a long time putting wear on the mechanical and electrical parts.
All manufacturers strongly recommend against the flexible ducting whether it is plastic or the foil type. The flexible ducting crimps off the air flow too much when the unit is pushed back into place. It also holds lint which, when ignited, goes off like flash paper and will cherry inside the duct. The flexible duct will just melt through, (yes, even the foil type will just melt), and then you have the lint "cherryed up" in the floor behind the dryer or in the crawlspace.
The ignitor glows red, lights the gas than 15 seconds later there is a click and the gas goes out? I just replaced the sensor assembly but it is still doing the same thing.
Answer Hello Dan,
The ignitor has to pull from 3.2 to 3.6 amps of current to open the gas valve. This will actually make the ignitor turn bright yellow, almost white hot. If the ignitor 5318EL3001A is only turning red, the ignitor is probably the issue. You can test this with a clamp on amp-meter TJCL1100 by hooking it around only one wire to the ignitor.
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
Dryer is not heating up any more. What all so I replace thermostat or igniter or both?
Answer Hello Paul. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Dryer runs for a few loads then trips the thermostat, I have cleaned the vent, vent hose isn't restricted, not sure what I should do next?
Answer Hi Trevis. The reason that the thermostat part # 6931EL3004B pops is it over heats,theres only two things that causes that either the blower wheel 5835EL1002A or the vent hose is kinked or restricted. Remove both igniter part # 5318EL3001A wires and test the element. If the igniter is weak it will eventually get just hot enough to get slack in it and open. If it trips the thermostat then when it does do you hear a audible click? If so then the flame sensor part # is 6501EL3001A. It reads closed, 0-ohms cold. It is defective and should regulate the temperature normally. Thank You.