My Whirlpool dryer will not start. I have checked everything I know to find the problem including start button, thermostats, fuses, door, motor, timer,and heating element. All have checked out fine using multimeter. I noticed there is a very small circuit board (approx 2"x3"). Could this be the problem and how would you check it?
Randy O for Model Number LEQ9508KQ1
Answer Randy, The printed circuit board would be the electronic control for the sensor dry settings, it would cause the timer to not advance or shut off at the end of the cycle. It wouldn't normally cause a no start situation. If you have circuit checked all the components, you will need to conduct a voltage check on all the wiring and components, until you find the broken wire, First check and make sure you have the proper voltage at the terminal block, and that the connections are tight and proper.
Dryer quit heating. Tested thermal cut-off, thermastats, element, cleaned the dryer and made sure air flow was good. Thermal cut- off was bad replaced it and the dryer heated for 15-20 minutes and quit thermal cut-off was bad agian.now what?
Billy for Model Number LEQ8611LW1
Answer Hello Billy,
The thermal fuse is just that.....Thermal. This means that it is opened by temperature. Logically thinking, if the unit cannot get rid of the heat it produces, the thermal cutout will open to prevent a fire. If the thermal fuse continues to open, this means that there is too much back pressure from the exhaust duct. The only way to correct the situation is to correct the duct. I know you said you had checked it, but if it is flexible, this may be the only issue. Check the exhaust for crimps or clogs as this is the most probable cause and the most denied by customers. Remember the duct should be as short and straight as possible while being a full 4 inches for proper air flow even in the turns. Flexible ducting is insufficient as it has the ridges through the full length which slows the air flow. Plastic PVC piping is insufficient as the interior diameter is only 3 1/2 inches. The only ducting recommended by all of the manufacturers is the 4 inch aluminum dryer exhaust duct. For a 90° angle, they make the elbows in the aluminum and you should always duct tape the sections together as screws will catch lint and clog the new duct.
The dryer drum rides on seals made of felt. Since they are made of felt, they cannot hold pressure. If the unit has a ducting issue, it will build back pressure and blow past the felt seals and back into the cabinet with the thermal fuse.
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
The heating element was bad. I replaced it and the high temperature themostat. The dryer worked really well for 2 or 3 days. Now it will not heat up.
Rick for Model Number MAYTAG PYET444AYW ELECTRIC DRYER
Answer Hello Rick,
You should check the exhaust duct for clogs and/or crimps.. You see, the thermally operated components are opened by temperature. If the heat isn't getting out of the unit, the components see this rise in temperature and respond accordingly.
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
How do I check to see if the heater is bad in the freezer with a multi meter? What do I set the meter on?
John for Model Number gsl25jfpa
Answer Hello John. You will test the heater for continuity. It should read closed. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter and what you will need to set it on. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
Using a test meter, how do u check to see if the fuse on the blower housing is good?
Albert C. for Model Number medc400vwo Maytag electric dryer
Answer Hello Albert,
Put the test meter to the resistance setting (ohm) and if it isn't auto adjusting, set it to the lowest setting on the meter for resistance. Remove one wire from the fuse and put one lead on each terminal of the fuse. (You have to remove one lead so you don't read through the circuit). A good fuse will give the same reading you get if you touch the leads directly to one another. A bad fuse will give no response on the readout.
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
How do I test to see if the start button is bad? Light comes on but dryer will not start.
Albert for Model Number MEDC400VWO Maytag Electric Dryer
Answer Hi Albert. Use a volt/ohm meter part #@ TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. The start switch part # 3977456 is a momentary switch. When pressed in the ohm meter will read close or right at 0-O's. Thank You.
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
I have replaced heating elem. and a new hi lim. therm., but still not getting heat! I also checked the thermal fuse--it was good.
Chris for Model Number wed6400sw1
Answer Hello Chris. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. If this is good, you will need to start at the heater on each wire and start tracing backwards and see where you are loosing voltage from. The wires need to be unpluged from the heater and find the dead wire. Once you trace and have power, you have found the problem with the unit. You may have a bad control board W10111616 not sending power out of the relay on the unit. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
Hi. When my dryer starts, the heat starts right after but in about 10 second heat stops. And will starts again after a minutes or 2 what can make that problem? Help please.
Thomas for Model Number maytag dg313
Answer Hi Thomas. There is a flame sensor to the left of the burner assy. It acts as a "cycling switch" that can be defective. Part # 338906. It normally ohms closed. Also check the gas valve coils as they may be weak. Part # 279834. Dryer Gas Coils:
Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Thank You.
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
I have done everything below. Still no heating. Stays on LO only.
Mike for Model Number KEBC107KSS03
Answer Hello Mike. You will need to test both elements and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Be sure and unplug the wires going to the elements before testing them. If they are good, trace the voltage with your meter and see where you are loosing voltage at. Hope this helps.