Maytag dryer, no power, no lights at all, 246 volts both legs combine, 123 volts each leg to the connection terminal, terminal block is good. Wires to power board, the 12 gauge blue and black which plugs into the board, no voltage detected. Checked thermal fuse, it is getting continuity, checked door switch it is working. The power board looks pretty good with the exception of a round ( "transistor") white plastic case with dime size metal disc which has small amount of blackish on it, located just next to white connection leading to front control panel, also inspected front of dryer control board, nothing burned out. Power supple is lost and so am I. Thank you
Answer Hello Roy,
I would verify 120Vac to the grey wire on the light socket to ground. If it is there, test from the grey wire to the white wire. It should also read 120Vac. If not, you have dropped neutral. Note the wiring diagram on page 6 of the tech sheet.
The controls on my dryer are frozen. it will not respond in any way. Control panel lights up but no response at all. I get no codes or any signs of life. What do I check first?
Answer Hello Ken. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the LED console is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Make sure the connections are good. If so, replace the console.
I have no heat in the dryer. The diagnostic code 2 repeats every cycle after cleared. I removed the thermistor and it ohms out at about 9k ohms so I backed probed the wires at the control board with the thermistor plugged in and got the same reading. Suggestions?
Answer Hello Bob,
The thermistor is reading close enough to be correct. It should read 10K at 77°F, so 9K should be correct at about 70°F. I believe since you have troubleshot the wiring, that the issue will have to be the circuit in the control board (AP4045210) that reads the thermistor information.
I have an Amana NED7200TW dryer that is approx. 2 1/2 years old and am having issues. The first sign of a problem was it would not come back on after running a 40-50 minute cycle. Nothing would come on, no display, chim, or any sign of life. After about 15-20 minutes, it would turn on and work fine. Sometimes you could run several loads in a row with no trouble, other times you would have to wait. Now its got to the point to where it will only run for about 15-20 minutes, and then it shuts down. The display goes off, and it will not start back. After 15 minutes or so, it comes back on by its self, and the timer display is showing the remaining time from the stopped cycle. Could this be the curciut board over heating? Or maybe the Thermistor is going bad, but not sure if it would shut the display down...
Answer Ken, The thermistor 35001191 would not cause the dryer to shut down, it normally would cause and error code in the display. Based on your post, you may want to check the line cord connections at the terminal block, make sure there are no loose connections. Check the voltage(108 to120 VAC) From each supply leg to neutral, while the dryer is running and heating. If all checks are OK, then replace the control assembly 35001153, you'd have a failed component or a weak"foil tracer" in the board circuits.
After dryer completes timing system (say it set for ten minutes) the dryer does not shut off but continues and the ten minute digital number disappears and in its place are zig-zig displays. The heat continues as well.
Answer Hello Ted,
This sounds like the relay on the control board is stuck. After looking it up for you, the manufacturer says: Will Not Shut Off
• Check Membrane Pad.
• Check Electronic Control Board.
• Short in sensor circuit.
The zig-zag in the display eliminates the membrane switch and the sensor. The electronic control board 35001153 is the most logical deduction.
Our dryer is showing FE in the display and incoming current is 120 on each line. 238 both lines. Heat is working. Drum will turn in system check mode. Dryer will fault out even if not turned on as long as it is plugged in. Is this board the next thing to check? Thanks?
Answer Hi Dennis. Since this is a power frequency fluctuation code then remove the power cord from the unit. Look at the terminal block part # 279320 for any looseness of the terminal studs. Inspect the dryer cord to see if the male ends as well as the eyelet end's are burnt or frayed loose. Inspect the power cord as it comes into the unit control board. Make sure all connections are tight. Have a Professional Electrician to inspect the dryer outlet and breaker for loose wire connection there as well. A floating neutral or a hot leg can cause funny issues. Thank You.