i have maytag bravo and some it will not spin out and it will read UL on display can you tell me if that bravo has counted blance on it mtw6700tq0
Answer Wayne, Yes, the washer has a counter balance 8542674 mounted to the bottom of the outer tub closest to the rear panel, but that's most likely not the issue. The "UL" in the display indicates an "unbalanced load", this occurs when the RPS on the motor, does not produce the correct resistance in the specified amount of time. You wnt to remove the tub cover and check for a small article stuck between the tubs. and that the washer drains completely, if all's OK, then you'll need to check for loose connections and corrosion at the sensor and the main control board. You'll find the tech data sheet, in an envelope taped to the inside of the cabinet front panel. This will allow you to program into the diagnostic codes and control board tests, so you'll have a better idea of where to start, and the various possible issues.
I have a roper washer model ra6233kq1 with very little wear on all parts that spins the tub in the wash, rinse and spin phase of the wash, could it possible be the centrifugal switch?
Answer Hello Gary,
You may want to check the lid switch to make sure that it has continuity if the unit is not agitating or spinning. If the motor is running but not agitating or spinning then you would want to check the motor coupler. If the unit agitates and drains but does not spin then you would want to check the clutch assembly.
I have a 2 year old roper washer with negligible
wear, that stopped during the rinse cycle and I found the brake shoe was rubbing against the brake drum binding the transmission and motor stopping the rinsing operation. Removed the
basket drive and the brake looks good but the brake lining is still rubbing against the brake drum making it very difficult to rotate the basket drive. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you gary
Answer Hello Gary. What you are providing is not really a solution to your issue. The information you provided is correct operation. If the motor is humming and the unit does not spin, but will agitate. It is not the brake assembly, it is a bad timer. The motor must change directions to release the brake in the unit. If the timer is bad, and sends power to both motor terminals, you will need to order and replace the timer on the unit.
What could be wrong with the machine when it seems to work perfectly in Normal and Casual/Permanent Press cycles and not in Delicate or Handwash cycles? The mortor apparently trips on the thermal protection and smells hot or burning. Works after cooling downa and switching to a "regualr" cycle. I've had the machine apart and the motor turns freely. Could it be the starting windings when the motor is running on low speed or the starting capacitor? Are these only used in the slow motor speeds for the delcate cycles? I checked motor winding resistances and got three different readings for starting, low speed and high speed and none were shorted to ground or to each other. Readings were in the 12, 18 and 29 ohms ranges, if I remenber correctly. The clutch and brake look OK to me and seem to function correctly. The timer seems noisy (buzzy) somtimes. The motor/gearbox assembly turns slightly harder in one direction than the other, but I don't remember which direction clockwise or counterclockwise.
Answer Ron, The issue is not in the capacitor or the start winding, The motor wouldn't run if either were defective. The issue would be in the timer 3951702 or the motor 661600 low speed winding. If you remove power to the washer, place the timer in the delicate cycle and pull out the knobe, you should read a "closed" circuit across the tan and orange wire terminls of the timer, and an "open circuit between the tan and blue wire. if there is any resistance reading from tan to blue,the timer is trying to activate both spped windings at the same time and the motor overheats and shuts down on the overload.
My washing machine agitates fine but the spin cycle just gives a ratcheting noise and does not spin. Any ideas on what I need to replace or if its worth repairing?
Answer Hello Patrick,
This sounds like the gearcase may have an internal issue. If you could provide a model number, we can provide a part number. There are two different types of transmissions for these units: standard and neutral drain.
Hi APP, Original problem was agitate okay but not spin cycle. First was knocking during the spin, then later spin became nonfunctional. The main problem was the spin gear in the transmission was worn out. I replaced the transmission, clutch, the worn out motor coupling, drive block, spanner nut and dog ears. After repairs completed, I ran an empty tub load on a complete cycle to test it all. Agitated and spin cycle both working great. Half hour later ran same test again for second time, same as before to double check function. Agitated great but this time zero spinning, no knocking, no noise, no nothing. What is causing this? If it's the basket drive, do you have removal and installation instructions? I wasn't able to remove to inspect during the repairs. Thanks.
Answer Hello Paul,
It's a very good possibility that the basketdrive 285792 is the issue, especially if any oil got on it. To get it out, you drop the transmission and look straight up to see it. Get hold of the part in the center and rotate it while turning it. I think you rotate it counterclockwise. When it comes out, reinstallation is similar. Rotate it as you push it in and it makes the job an easy one.
I have a Kenmore Washer Model 11092595210 and have ordered parts from you before, but I need help to determine what my new problem is. The washer started making a noise when spinning like it was out of balance, but that is not the problem. I checked it empty and it makes a loud clunk when it starts spinning and then the noise continues like it is out of balance. Be aware that it still works, fills, washes, spins, just this noise so know something is wrong but don't want to throw parts at it. (Money issue). So, is there anyone there who could point me in the right direction as what to check on the washer, so I could then order my parts? Thanks
Answer Hello Geraldine. The first thing you will need to check is the drive block 389140. Check and make sure the drive block is not stripped out and loose on the tabs of the unit. If the drive block is good and is tight on the tabs, then the issue is either the clutch 285785 or the basket drive assembly 285792. Make sure the clutch is not worn or bad on the unit. If it looks and works good, then you will need to replace the drive tube assembly. Hope this helps.
Whirlpool Washing Machine was vibrating heavily, I've replaced Drive Block AP2905773, Basket Drive and Brake Assembly AP3094539. Washer is still vibrating heavily and making loud noise. What seems to be the problem ?
Answer Hello Roger. Check and make sure nothing is between the inner and outer tub assembly. If not, you will need to check and see if the noise is coming from the transmission. If so, a gear is bad and you will need to replace the transmission assembly 3360629. Hope this helps.