My Refrig. is freazing up in the back of freazer, starting to run all the time, is it the Bimetal defrost that controles this or the module part 2169337? If its the Module where is it located?
Answer Hello E. Davis. You will need to test the heater 2315530 and the bimetal 4387503 and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity when cold. If one of these are open, they are bad. If they both are good, then you will need to replace the defrost timer 2183400. It is located inside the control assembly. You will need to remove the screws holding the control assembly in place to access the timer. You can test the heater and bimetal with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
3 people found this answer helpful.
Bimetal Defrost are pink and brown, but the part is blue and light blue?????
Answer Hello Bert. The wire colors do not matter. The Bi-metal 4387503 is a closed circuit. As long as the temperature when it opens is the same, that is all that matters.
My refrigerator goes on and off very often, sometimes several times a minute. Is there some control besides the main thermostat that could cause this? I don't here the big click like when the main thermostat goes on and off.
Answer Hello Jim,
I would check the start relay on the compressor to see if it is bad. Normally when you pull the relay off and shake it against your hand, there might be particles of ceramic that come out. If this happens then you would need a new relay. We would need to verify your refrigerator model number to help further. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
My refrigerator does not defrost.
Answer Hello John. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I am considering the bi-metal defrost thermostat being the problem. The coil in the back wall of the freezer compartment totally ices up. The icemaker production slows down and both the refrigerator and the freezer are not as cool as normal. After turning the unit off and defrosting everything, including the ventilation tube the scenario repeated itself after a few days. I can advance the defrost timer manually and the unit shuts off. During this period I can detect no noise indicating a thawing process, and it seems the only time the unit shuts off automatically is when the temperature dial is raised to the warmest position.
Answer Hello Michael,
I'm assuming that when you force the unit into defrost at the defrost timer it is cycling itself back out of defrost by itself. If not, the defrost timer isn't advancing and will require replacement. If it is then the defrost thermostat or the heater are the main concerns. The thermostat cannot be tested unless it's below about 25°F. In this state it will be closed, (zero resistance). Also, this defrost thermostat 4387503 has the epoxy top so you should examine it carefully as if the epoxy is protruding from the metal cup, it has been contaminated with moisture and requires replacement.
Let me know if I can assist you futher.
Ice forms around the evaporator and the evaporator tray fills with ice. The drain tube also fills with ice, no water reaches the pan
Answer Hello Steve. Sounds like your defrost drain has frozen up. This isn't a big deal, just time consuming. You have to remove the back wall of the freezer compartment and get you hair dryer. The defrost drain is in the floor in the back of the freezer compartment (usually in the center). I usually use a paint scraper to remove all of the ice I can get out without damaging any Styrofoam. Then use the hair dryer to start melting ice. When the ice is gone except for the ice in the drain hole, I use a screwdriver to transfer the heat,(I stand the screwdriver up on the ice in the hole and heat the screwdriver shaft with the hairdryer). This method works great but is, as I said, a time consuming endeavor. You can speed things up if you have a portable steamer used for steaming clothes. It will melt the ice faster but you have to also use a shop vac to catch all of the water it produces. Once you get the drain clear, use a piece of weed eater string to chase the entire drain (never use wire or anything that can puncture the rubber drain tube!). After this is complete, I always put about a tablespoon of white vinegar in the drain to prevent algae formation which will also cause the drain to stop up again. Next, set the freezer to one number warmer, which will prevent the drain from freezing again if it froze due to excessively low temperatures. Good luck and I sure hope I've helped!