Error code ND. It doesn't drain. The pump is new and it works (tested separately), and if I lower the drain hose the water comes out easy, no blockage. Please help
Answer Hello Marco,
As per the tech sheet:
• Check for restricted drain system.
• In cold climates check for frozen drain hose.
• Check for 120Vac at the pump when a spin cycle is selected.
• Check pump motor winding resistance. Normal resistance is about 14.2 ohms (±7%).
• Check that the machine control correctly senses the water level in the washer. See Board Input Test.
• Check drain pump. See Board Output Test.
• Check the machine control board connections at CN10 (Pin 6) for the pump. Should see 120Vac.
• Check tub to pump hose for twist in hose.
Considering the description given, it sounds like a poor electrical connection or a board issue.
Is the door lock light supposed to come on at the start of the cycle and stay on until the end of wash cycle?
Answer Hello George,
It will take the unit several minutes to lock the door but once locked, it should remain locked unless the unit is stopped or the cycle is completed.
Our washer works fine, going through all of the cycles. It just doesn't turn off when it's done. You have to hold down the start/stop button for it to stop, otherwise it stays on forever and the drum turns every couple of minutes. I replaced the motor/circuit board several years with the updated one but it didn't resolve the issue. I'm thinking it's the main board but want to verify before I order one.
Answer Hello Mike,
This will be one of two issues: the black and grey wires are switched on the machine control board line relay or the contacts in the line relay have welded shut. This line relay is the black box with two wire terminals on it on the far right of the machine control board that is in the control panel. It is just to the left of the power transformer. The black wire should be connected to the terminal marked "COM" and the grey wire should be connected to the "NO" terminal. If they are swapped, this powers the machine without the control having to energize the line relay. If the contacts are stuck, the board 22002989 will have to be replaced to correct the issue.
washer overfilling. found burnt spots on back of control board. (just followed smell) are there other parts that could be bad that caused this and will that burn new $200 control board. Fill switch is ok kicked off fill at 5 gal and secondary at 6 gal. I am worried about timer, it sounds funny.
Answer John, We believe you have a MAH4000AWW "Neptune" washer. The burnt tracers are probably on or in the right hand bottom corner of the backside of the control board. These tracers are the circuit to the fill valve, when they short out they usually keep the fill valve solenoid activated and cause the washer to overfill. You'll also want to check the fill valve solenoids and wiring, (especially the green ground wire)or replace the fill valve 22002795 and replace the control board. The timers can become noisy after a few years of service, but they seldom fail, as long as it is operating/advancing you'll be OK.
I have a washing machine that starts to fill and then stops. Obviously i want to buy the correct part from you so I checked the resistance on the water inlet valve and it appears to be okay. i then looked for burnt connections on the control board-nothing. any other ideas on what to do next?
I see that the timer is what you show as next potential culprit. is there a way to test this or other parts with digital multimeter?
Answer Craig, The next check should be at the fill hoses and valve. If you haven't yet, check and clean the debris screens in the fill hose and inside the fill valve inlets. Then test the water level switch circuits 22002921 or 22002994 (depending on serial number) with the air tube disconnected. You would also want to blow in the end of the hose, this will clear any debris or sediment in the tube. If the control board doesn't see a change in the switch circuits on the pressure switch within a specific time, the control "assumes" the washer is flooding and shuts down. Also a resistance test is not as accurate as needed, you can get a proper resistance value, and the solenoid not lift the plunger in the valve body, and this washer is temperature controlled, it fluctuates the valves off and on the maintain a minimum water temperature, if there's a failed solenoid plunger, when the control cycles the power to the other solenoid, if it doesn't lift the washer will stop filling and then shut down after a few minutes. Yes, you can test all the components within this washer with a digital multi meter.
Using the wiring diagram and test information on the tech data sheet in the console, you shouldn't have any issues.
Our Maytag washer everything works except when it goes to wash and rinse cycle it shuts off. we then have to drain the water. Water fills properly and drains properly. Tub turns freely when empty. I have ordered a new control board AP4026827 (22002989) Control board from your company and am asking if that will solve the problem or is something else needed? Thanks Glenn
Answer Glenn, Before you install a new control board, first check and flush the water faucets, The fill hose and fill valve screens. Make sure they are free of any debris or replace them. 12001413, Y013783, 96160. Roll the control panel forward, and disconnect the air tube from the water level switch 22002921 and blow in the end of the tube, this should clear any sediment or debris that may have accumulated in the tube or bell. When the washer is started and the machine fills with water, the control board allows a specific amount of time to pass(12 to 15 minutes) then the board sends out a "check" pulse, if the pulse doesn't return to the control board, the control interprets this as an overfill / flooding situation and turns the fill valve circuit off, and you have to start the cycle over again. If the water level switch doesn't "close" due to a slow fill or a clog in the air tube, the pulse doesn't return to the control board.