Hello, I am experiencing F2 and F5 codes. I have ohmed the sensor and it seems OK. I have not verified the sensor wiring back to the relay board. The board number I have is 71002622. What should I do?
Answer Hello Al. If the sensor is testing good, then the relay board is bad on the unit. The relay board needed 71002622 has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.
Neither bake or broil coils are not coming on. Yet, in Test mode, both coils heat up as they should. Also, I see power relay (on relay board) not activating in normal mode, yet I can see the relay solenoid making contact in test mode. Can you suggest which part needs replacement?
With the unit turned on to bake you will want to check the voltage at the relay board to ensure that between L1 and bake there is 240 vac. If there is not then check to make sure that power is coming into the relay board. If it does then replace the board and if not then replace the clock.
I have a Jenn-Air double wall oven WW27430P that is 14 years old. 5 years ago I had to replace the clock/control board due to dimming issue and non-responsive keys. It worked fine again until now. Am currently experiencing these issues: occasionally both oven lights go out - even when switch has been on. Will not turn back on for a time. Occasionally bottom oven switches off completely - sometimes when the door has been opened - sometimes for no reason at all. Also - both ovens do not seem to hold a temp. The top oven seems the worst - drops more than 25 degrees from set temp - even though display still shows what was set. The bottom oven seems to eventually recover from the temp drop - the top oven doesn't appear to. Determined this using an oven probe with external display clamped to a rack. Finally - I also notice that the oven fan comes on as soon as the oven reaches 210 to 220 degrees and stays on for a long time after the oven has been shut off. Any suggestions? Does all this seem to point to the control board/clock again - or to the board relay? If it points to the relay board - how to I access it to replace it? Appreciate any help!
Answer Hi. You may be experiencing more then one issue. As far as both oven lights, you need to see if each door latch is allowing the door to seal part # 71001970 to close. If the door seal is hard then it will hold the door out too far to close. If the door switch no-longer available does not close then the power is not complete to each light or the oven controls. If the door is opened the oven stops cooking as a safety concern. Push in on the door switch to see if the baking now works momentarily. Jumper the wires at the switch together to temporarily bypass the switch. The wiring diagram is in the top by the controls. The Clock is part # 71001872. The upper relay board is part # 74006612. The bottom relay board is no longer available . Make sure all 240 vac terminal block studs are tight and you verify 120 vac in between the outer terminals to the middle terminals. If one side does not have the 120 vac then you have to reset the breaker, and make sure all wiring is clean and tight. The oven lights are in an assy. with the socket. bulb and the lens cover. It is part # 74011278. Check to see if you have 120 vac to it before replacing it. The oven temperature probes part # 12001656 ohm out to 1080-1100 ohms cold unplugged. Wiggle and rotate the wires during testing. The door hinge kit is 12002112 for both doors. Thank You.