My washer won't spin in the spin cycle. The washer is definitely trying to spin. The spin drum seems almost frozen and hard to spin by hand. I can smell the belt smoking as the washer tries to spin. The wash cycle and drain pump seem to work fine. What is the culprit part & is it time to replace other parts for maintenance since I'm there?
Answer Harold, You'll need to raise the top panel of the washer, remove the tub cover and check to make sure there's no small articles stuck between the tubs. If the tubs are clear, you most likely have a seized tub bearing 6-2040130. Besides the bearing assembly, you'll need a set of belts 12112425 a tub seal kit 6-2095720 and a spanner wrench TJ90TB123A to perform the repair. You'll also want to order some silicone grease 204999 to lubricate the rollers on the motor carriage and TJ93240 turbine oil lubricant to lube the new bearing and race. This isn't that difficult a repair, just awkward due to the size of the parts when you remove the tub.
I have a Maytag washer model # lat9416aae There is grease leaking from the bottom of the washer at the center pulley is there a seal or a gasket that I can replace
Answer Michael, Yes there is a seal kit 207843 that can be replaced in the event of an oil leak from the shaft. There is a tool TJ20000021 used to remove the seal from the housing, which makes it a lot easier, you can work the seal out using a small flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers. You do have to be careful installing the new seal and you need to remove the oil that has accumulated on the pulley, belts, base, etc.
There is a loud squeeling sound at the end of the spin cycle. Is the problem the brake?
Answer Hello Gary. If the squeel sounds like the brake, then you will need to replace the brake assembly on the unit.
What causes my Maytag washer to make a loud pop when the spin cycle stops? Is the break assembly repairable?
Answer Hello Gary,
These units are notorious for the brake noise. The manufacturer says you can tilt the unit up and oil the brake to stop the noise. In my many years of experience, I have found a shortcut. You can lubricate the brake with a spray lubricant and the use of the spray tube that comes with it, you can shoot the lubricant in the brake assembly with no disassembly. Be aware that lubricating the brake causes the tub to spin longer before stopping. This will in no way affect the wash cycle or the wash result.
In order to access the brake to lubricate it, tilt the machine up and lean it against the wall, (you may want to have an assistant hold the machine to prevent it's falling if on a wood or tile floor). You will see a large pulley in the center of the unit. Above this you can see the brake drum. If you look at our site where the part is illustrated as number 23, 35-6918, the lubricant needs to be sprayed into this metal part. Inside it is the brake rotor. It's the part making the noise. Since a spray lubricant is so thin, this may have to be done a couple of times a year, but it beats putting in new parts that will do the same thing after 20 or 30 loads. Some customers have told me that the noise returned after a couple of loads.
The brake makes a loud pop at the end of the spin cycle?
Answer Hi Gary. It may be that the brake rotor lining part # 35-6714 has separated from the assy and is loose inside the stator/rotor area. It is common that part of the lining glue comes loose. Then you need to see if the brake stator part # 35-6918 has internal grooves in it and need replaced. You may just need to use emery cloth on it to get it smooth again if there has not been a lot of wear. Use the brake tool TJ12002011. Thank You.
How do you remove and replace the brake assembly?
Answer Bill, We'd send you the Brake Package information, If you had supplied an email address. But in short, first it's best to have the removal tool TJ038315, but I imagine you could use a chisel or punch and hammer to remove it, but it won't be as easy. You'll need to raise the front of the washer or lay it on it's back. remove both belts and the transmission drive pullet. At the one o'clock position, on the damper and above the brake package you'll see a 7/8 in. hex bolts and clip, remove the bolt and clip. You can now use the tool(s) to remove the brake package by turning the assembly in a counterclockwise direction, until the threads on the brake clear the threads in the damper. You can now slide the package off the lower portion of the transmission housing and off the unit. Remove the bearing assembly from the top of the brake package by tapping on the side of the assembly, with it upside down. Reeverse the procedure and you'll be OK. Good Luck and Thanks