My whirlpool washer leaked all over yesterday first time in 6 years, Pump OK, Hoses OK could it be the center post gasket
also bottom of Gear case assembly wet and little rusty.
You will want to check the agitator for cracking and check to make sure that the outer tub is not cracked on the unit next to where the centerpost seal is located. The centerpost seal on these units normally would not be the issue. Double check to make sure that the pump is not leaking as this is the most common place for the leak to occur. You may want to put some water in the unit and see if you can locate where the leak is originating from.
AT THE END OF THE SPIN CYCLE THE WASHER MAKES AN UNUSUAL CLANKING NOISE. I CHECKED THE TUB AND NOTICED I COULD PULL UP ON THE TUB SEVERAL CENTIMETERS AND THE TUB SITS TOWARD THE RIGHT WHEN STOPPED( WILL NOT STAY CENTERED). IT DOES NOT LEAK WATER. DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS TO LOOK AT FOR REPAIR.
Answer Don, The "clanking noise at the end of the spin cycle is most likely the drive block 389140 rotating on the drive tube 285792 because the drive block tab slots are worn out, when the brake and tube stop, the drive block and tub continue to rotate. The tub sitting off to one side is usually due to a loose or broken suspension spring 63907 or bracket, or in some cases the tub has gone off balance, and over rotated and the skid plate and pads are "hung up" and not allowing the tub to re center properly.
Ok , I've got my washer apart to the point of pulling the inner tub out so I can change the tub seal but the inner tub is stuck to the shaft and wont slide off. I've got penetrating oil on it and have been tapping it with a wood block and hammer but no luck.
To get the tub out you will need to rock the tub back and forth. If it still will not come off the you will need to try to find an adjustable spanner with a hooked end. Place the hook of the wrench in the slot of the drive block and give the wrench handle a tap with a hammer.
Washer will not spin clothes out all the way. Have to ring clothes out by hand before putting in dryer. What could the problem be?
Answer Hello Jerry. 2 parts to check out here. You need to check the drive block and the clutch in the unit. Either will cause the unit to do as you are describing.
My one year old whirlpool, warranty just ran out, has about 4 centimetres clearance under the agitator as opposed to another new one that I saw with about 1 centimetre clearance. The agitator is bolted down as far as it will go. The machine had stopped spinning on it's spin cycle and I was replacing the clutch when I noticed the excess clearance. I'd pulled off the agitator and noticed that the white fitting under the agitator wasn't sitting down and the clip was loose. The centre of the metal sheath that circles the agitator shaft is about 4 centimeters above being flush where it should be, as checked on the new one that I mentioned previously that I'd inspected with 1 centimetre clearance, so the white fitting wont go down far enough and clip in when the agitator is put back on. It was like this when I started the job and, yes, I have pulled the clutch repair apart and reassembled it three times so I'm pretty sure it's right too. It seems like the bowl has dropped down however, as I never installed this machine originally, it make be true that this fault was there from new. It doesn't seem balanced right at all when it runs following the repaired clutch but it does spin now and goes through it's whole cycle OK. I've changed the motor coupling as well and the motor and gearbox etc are seated down properly. Love the site and thanks in advance, Dave
Answer Hello David,
This sounds like the drive block, 389140, has an issue. If the spanner nut 21366 has loosened up, this can cause the issue you are describing. It can also wallow out the spin basket 8541746 opening where the drive block sits normally and the entire inner tub will drop, causing the excessive space under the agitator and the inner tub will drag inside the outer tub. This will prevent the spin cycle from being properly executed also. The spanner wrench needed to tighten and loosen the spanner nut is TJ90TB123A.
Will this gasket work for my Maytag washer? I didn't see my specific model number on the cross reference list. Thanks.
Answer Chris, We're not absolutely sure which seal your needing, but, 383727 cenetr post gasket, does not work in your make / model washer. Depending on the serial number of your washer, and if the washer leaks from the center of the outer tub you will need,W10116791 or W10116790 These are the tub seal tub bearing kits used on your washer. Good Luck and Thanks
I have a leak coming from bottom of tub area dripping off brake and trans. Only when washer on high fill not on low load. replaced center post gasket and still doing the same thing. Where else could it be coming from? Definitely not pump or hoses. How about any seals on the centerpost itself?
Answer Terri, You did follow the instructions and reccomendations from the video attached to the tub seal part number, right ? The only other seal would be in the top of the spin tube, agitator shaft, and there should be no water up in that area, unless the washer is overfilling. Besides if it were the agitator shaft seal, the water would drip from the clutch brake assembly then onto the transmission. You mat want to remove the spin tub and check the tub seal for distortion or loss of the seal around the shaft tube. Thanks and Good Luck
leak from the center under the basket and water runs down the right front strutt when looking at the front of the machine. water drips pretty fast but machine still runs. can't see exactly where the leak is coming from other than it appears from the center of the outer basket. is this the centerpost seal leaking and what is involved in installing a new one? thanks.
Answer Johnm, Based on your post information and description, your centerpost gasket/seal is leaking, or you may have a crack in the outer tub(rare, but possible). It will require removing the cabinet, and tub assembly(s) and a hammer and spanner wrench TJ90TB123A and basic hand tools. It's not a very hard repair to perform and you should be able to complete the repair in less than an hour. Theres also a very comprehensive video, attached to the parts diagram 383727 for you to review. Thanks and Good Luck