When my washer goes into the spin cycle it makes a clicking noise. Spin cycle works fine except this clicking noise. The clutch assembly was changed about 18 months ago because the spin cycle didn't work.
Answer Hello Pat,
More often than not, a clicking noise is usually something in the drain pump that is contacting the pump impeller. Try removing the hoses from the drain pump and see if you can locate the debris and remove it with needle-nosed pliers. If you cannot, the pump 3363394 will likely have to be replaced.
How many of the big heavy springs does this model have? My tub leans slightly when loaded and how do I know which one to replace? Also, do I need to grease the shaft bearing in the motor behind the pump? The shaft is rusty and was difficult to get the pump off. Thank you for your help.
Answer Hello Jewels,
It is more likely that you need to replace the skate plate 3946509 for the tilting issue. Also, on the motor shaft, I usually use a piece of sandpaper on it until the pump will slip on and off easily and then put a thin layer of grease or petroleum jelly on it to discourage the oxidation formation. As far as the springs go, there are three 63907 and one counterbalance spring W10250667. The counterbalance spring is common to rust and break but the suspension springs are not so common to fail.
While in a spin cycle, our washer suddenly began making a loud squealing/whining noise. Other than the noise and some oil at the bottom of the gearbox, the washer fills, agitates, spins, and drains just fine. Any ideas? Thank You!
Answer James, The clutch 285785 could be slipping and making noise, especially in the early stages of the spin cycle. Also, there may have been something that slipped into the drain pump 3363394 or hose, or the impeller shaft and bearing are worn and making the noise. These are the two more common noise issues, there are others, but you probably want to start there.
Washer only hums (and has odor) if left on agitate setting but will spin and drain. Coupling was recently replaced.
Answer Jim, It's neither the coupler or the clutch, the washer spins and drains. That means the coupler and clutch are working within specifications. You'll need to check or replace the timer 661636. The timer reverses the polarity to the motor windings, which determines which direction the motor will rotate. if the motor runs in one direction, but not the other, 99% of the time, there is a damaged contact inside the timer and the motor hums and overheats(odor).
My washer will fill with water spin and drain,but it will not agitate it just hums.
Answer Denise, Since the washer spins and drains, the 285785 the clutch and coupling aren't the issue at this time, the clutch is part of the drive system, that makes the tub spin. The more likely issue is a failed contact inside the timer itself 3951708. If the motor runs in one direction, there is a 99% chance that the motor will run in the opposite direction, as long as the timer contacts reverse the polarity to the motor. A faulty contact in the timer would make the motor hum and not run in one direction.
I am replacing the clutch assembly. I pulled out the gear box and set it on the floor overnight. I came back 24 hours later to find that there was oil that has leaked out of the gear box. Is this a problem? Do I need to replace some oil in the gear box? If so what kind of oil do I put in and how do I do it?
Answer Hello George,
There should be no problem with the gearcase since there is a quart in there to begin with. It takes quite a large loss to affect the operation of the gearcase. If you lose a tablespoon of the oil, it is so thick that it will spread out a lot, looking like more of a loss than it actually is. Anytime the gearcase is removed and left out of the machine for any amount of time it should always be left in an upright position. The vent hole can still lose some oil but will not affect its' operation if oil loss is minimal.