oven fan runs continously. Oven is not on and has not been used for a couple of week.
thanks.
John for Model Number CWE 900
Answer John, You will need to remove power to the wall oven, remove the control panel, and check the two thermostats mounted near the back of the compartment, the hi limit switch should have a closed circuit. The cooling fan thermostat should have an open circuit, at room temperature. If the thermostats check proper, you'll need to check or replace the relay board.
Hello, The Magic Chef oven does not heat. Was wondering what part I would need to fix this, please? Want to order the correct part.
(I received instructions on how to install part: AP4102828.)
Jacqueline for Model Number Oven model number: 59f-5txw
Answer Jacqueline, There are several possibilities. The more likely issues are, a faulty relay board 7428P009-60 (depending on serial number) A broken wire in the harness. An "open" hi limit switch circuit 7403P063-60. Usually, if you can program all the selections on the electronic control 7601P156-60 and there are no error codes displayed, the control is not the issue. You'll need to remove the oven from the cabinet, so you can access the back of the wall oven and the relay board and wires, or remove the top cover, to access the hi limit switch and wiring to test or inspect the components.
How do you install this: Item Number: AP4102828 Please? (I only have a screw driver and a hammer.)
Jacqueline for Model Number 59f-5txw
Answer Hello Jacqueline,
First thing you need to do is go tool shopping. You will not need the hammer. It should be left in the other room, depending on your temperance. You will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a Phillips head screwdriver at the least.
As is the norm in appliance repair, the first step is to guard your life by discontinuing the power supply to the unit. You will need to remove the screws on the top trim piece and lift it off. Now you need to remove all of the buttons and knobs. This will allow you to tilt the glass forward so it can be lifted out. Now the screws, (approximately 6 of them), can be removed that hold the metal plate in that the clock is mounted to. When they are removed, the metal plate can be tilted forward and the clock can be removed from it.
This is the crucial part. Do not remove all of the wires from the clock unless you enjoy nightmares. The proper way to continue at this point is to remove one wire from the old clock and, keeping it thread through the metal mounting plate, place it on the new clock assembly. I know the wires are short and it is a bit of an aggravation, but this is the easiest way and it will work. remove and replace each wire one at a time. When they are all replaced, the assembly can be reassembled in the reverse order of the disassembly. If the wires are hard to remove, you can use a small screwdriver to pry the connectors up from the base of the clock terminals. Do not grab the wire and pull. This will normally pull the wire from the spade connector and the spade connector will still be on the board. Please let us know if we can assist you further.
Clock display light goes out when oven heats up. Oven works but you can't see the oven temp. When oven cools down,if you open & close the oven door, the display light will come back on. Any ideaes on the problem?
Ray for Model Number 59f-5txw
Answer Hello Ray. The first thing you will need to check is the wiring and make sure none is bad or loose connections on the unit. If all is good, then you will need to replace the clock assembly 7601P156-60 as it has shorted and is bad.
Do I need a new ERC board for this electric oven? Here is the situation.
This is an electric oven that will not bake or broil. But the display works and so does the light and fan.
This is what I did to diagnose the problem:
First, I measured the sensor which is good since it measures 1075 ohms at room temperature.
Next, with my meter at the control board terminals, I read 240V across the control board's L1 and Bake relay terminals with the oven plugged in and in standby. This means to me that there is continuity through the bake element and the limit switch.
Next, keeping the volt meter leads on the L1 and Bake relay terminals, I turn the oven controls on to the Bake setting. The voltmeter continues to read 240V. So the relays are not closing (if they closed, I would get a 0 volt reading across the relay terminals). Then after about 30 seconds the bake display shuts off, and the meter still reads 240V.
Then I did the same thing with the L1 and Broil terminals on the control board and got the same results.
So, it seems like the Bake and Broil elements are good (at least there is continuity through them), the limit switch is closed (there is continuity through this), and the sensor is good.
Does it need a new circuit board?
Brad for Model Number 59fn-5tvw
Answer Hi Brad. First verify if you have the 240 vac between the red and the black at the terminal block. Then verify if there is 12 vac from each of those wires to the middle white wire (neutral). Is there ? Are the connections tight ? At each of the elements check to see if the connections are tight or terminals bad ? Are they ? Then you need to get your ohm meter and see if the elements have continuity ? Make sure they are not shorted to ground or the mount frame. If they are open then you replace the element. Now you can remove power and put the meter at above 240 vac. Then unhook one wire off the element so you do not read through the element. Put one meter lead on the terminal connector and wrap electrical tape over it for safety. Then put the other lead on the opposite element wire . Command for heat. If you have 240 vac there you know that you have the relay from the corresponding clock relay closing and the control is good. If you have 0 volts then you lost the circuit depending on which side of the element you test. You can see the wire coming directly from the terminal block to one side of the elements that constantly feeds the element power always. The clock relays (bake and broil) close to send the "other" 120 vac to the element to completely give the element 240 vac each. You can also just test the elements for continuity each and then also go to the relay itself and unhook the bake or broil wire individually to verify voltage output. The clock control is part # 7601P156-60. Thank You.
Do I need a new ERC board for this electric oven? Here is the situation.
This is an electric oven that will not bake or broil. But the display works and so does the light and fan.
This is what I did to diagnose the problem:
First, I measured the sensor which is good since it measures 1075 ohms at room temperature.
Next, with my meter at the control board terminals, I read 240V across the control board's L1 and Bake relay terminals with the oven plugged in and in standby. This means to me that there is continuity through the bake element and the limit switch.
Next, keeping the volt meter leads on the L1 and Bake relay terminals, I turn the oven controls on to the Bake setting. The voltmeter continues to read 240V. So the relays are not closing (if they closed, I would get a 0 volt reading across the relay terminals). Then after about 30 seconds the bake display shuts off, and the meter still reads 240V.
Then I did the same thing with the L1 and Broil terminals on the control board and got the same results.
So, it seems like the Bake and Broil elements are good (at least there is continuity through them), the limit switch is closed (there is continuity through this), and the sensor is good.
Does it need a new circuit board?
Brad for Model Number 59FN-5TVW
Answer Hi Brad. First verify if you have the 240 vac between the red and the black at the terminal block. Then verify if there is 12 vac from each of those wires to the middle white wire (neutral). Is there ? Are the connections tight ? At each of the elements check to see if the connections are tight or terminals bad ? Are they ? Then you need to get your ohm meter and see if the elements have continuity ? Make sure they are not shorted to ground or the mount frame. If they are open then you replace the element. Now you can remove power and put the meter at above 240 vac. Then unhook one wire off the element so you do not read through the element. Put one meter lead on the terminal connector and wrap electrical tape over it for safety. Then put the other lead on the opposite element wire . Command for heat. If you have 240 vac there you know that you have the relay from the corresponding clock relay closing and the control is good. If you have 0 volts then you lost the circuit depending on which side of the element you test. You can see the wire coming directly from the terminal block to one side of the elements that constantly feeds the element power always. The clock relays (bake and broil) close to send the "other" 120 vac to the element to completely give the element 240 vac each. You can also just test the elements for continuity each and then also go to the relay itself and unhook the bake or broil wire individually to verify voltage output. The clock control is part # 7601P156-60. Thank You.
Oven will not heat to right temp or sometimes not at all. Appears to be control unit is that your thought
Guest
Answer Hi, you could have a bad oven sensor 12001656. You can test this with an multi-meter TJMA-DM1. It should read 11,000 ohms or less at room temperature. If it is good then change your control board. Hope this helps!