Code E1 F2 on wall oven.
Answer Hello Marlene. Keypad keytail not connected. 1.Check keypad connector for firm connection.
2.Press CANCEL. If error code returns after 60 sec., replace
Bottom burning is not coming on when I turn oven on. Checked the bake element for continuity and shows that the element is not bad. Not sure what to do from here. Top broil element works fine.
Answer Hello Dennis,
If you check power from L1 to bake on the control board with the oven on bake then you should have 240 vac. If you do not have 240 vac then you would need to replace control board 8302994.
Our electric drop in range (glass top) shut off during the middle of the oven cleaning cycle. (door still locked). The range top burners work fine, but nothing works in the oven and nothing on the control display board. When checking the incoming feed wires under the range top, I noticed the nuts were loose on the wire connection bar. I cleaned and replaced one wire "bandjo" wire connection that appeared to have gotten hot and tightened all nuts, but still no power to oven or control board. Tracing the black and red wires from the power connection bar, going to the control board assembly (P/N 8301919 Rev E) , I have 123 volts on both wires. I pulled the board, (P/N 8301907 Rev B) and one post on the back side marked C21 is slightly discolored with brown stain around it and only slightly discolored on the front soldered side with no obvious burned ribbons. Any thoughts?
Answer Gary, Based on your description, and the wiring diagram for your range, you most likely have a damaged control board 8302994. The loose connection, high heat and high voltage in the clean cycle probably damaged the board circuit.If the thermal fuse had "opened" that would eliminate power to the elements, but not the control board.
My motherboard is gone on my whirlpool RBS305PDS16 oven, and I want to replace it. (1) Is this a simple "do it yourself job"? (2) I would like to know how to unfasten the white clip that the fuse wires go into (P2 fuse white clip with aprox 5 wires coming out of it). It seems stuck in the motherboard. Thanks in advance.
Answer Hello Jerry,
If the connector has a lock on feature, there will be an extra plastic part to the side of the connector that the standoff is on, on the control board. This will either be released by compressing either the wire end of the connector or, on some designs, will need to be compressed in the center of the connector. I use a pair of 90° needle nosed pliers to accomplish this task. If it doesn't look "doubled", it probably has no locking feature and will have to be simply pulled straight off.