I also have a Whirlpool dryer, circa 1977, with the exact same scenario as Jim M., where the assembly would initially fire fine with the old coils the first time, but not thereafter. After replacing the old coils with new,the igniter would glow, but this time without fire at all.
I returned the new coils before checking the part # (they appeared to be identical) and wondered later if that may have had something to do with the above scenario or could possibly installing the new coils in reverse order have been the problem? I am now wondering if part # 279137 could sufficiently replace the old coils?
Answer Jim F., The 279137 coil kit, is pretty much a "universal" kit designed to operate on all older WP "3 coil" gas valves. Of course, the coils need to be installed properly( the singlr larger coil on the right plunger, and the "split coil" on the left plunger" in order to pull the plungers up in the proper sequence. And the wiring has to be correct and tight, and wired according to the instruction sheet, and make sure you turn the gas supply on again at the wall shut off.. You may want to order and try again. The alternative would be to order the gas valve complete 279894 this will give you an updated "2 coil" valve, would make a somewhat easier installation, and pretty much guarantee an operational dryer for quite sometime. Thanks
I have a Whirlpool gas dryer (over 20 years old) model #LG6901XKW0. Situation: the dryer gas would ignite the first time the dryer was started but, further ignition of the gas will not start. The glow is present, but the gas coils may not be letting any more gas out. I bought a new Gas Valve Coil Assembly Kit and installed. Now NO ignition occurs, not even the first time the dryer is turned on. The glow is still present. When installing your new part, the 3-pin to 4-pin adaptor was not needed, as the 3-pin connection matched the dryer's 3-pin (2 wires, red and blue) power connection. The red and black wires going to the glow bar did need the old harness plastic connector, so I did splice the black to black and red to red using your supplied wire ties. Thanks for your help, Jim
Answer Hello Jim,
It makes no sense that replacing the safety valve made the unit stop firing at all. Have you checked for voltage at the coils? They are 120Vac. If the ignitor is glowing, is it glowing red, orange, or almost white hot? You see, the safety valve cannot open until 3.2 to 3.6 amps of current are being pulled through it. If low current is pulled through it, the ignitor will not get hot enough to pull the coils open. I would check the amperage draw by putting a clamp on ampmeter TJCL1100 on one wire of the ignitor. If sufficient current draw is there, you have received a bad new gas valve. It is possible for the ignitor to fail during servicing as it is made from a ceramic material which gets more delicate with usage.
My dryer doesn't heat up, upon taking the back panel off, I saw the igniter glowing but there was no flame. Do you think I would need a new coil or a new regulator to solve this problem?
Answer Hello James. As long as everything else is good on the unit, it sounds like the coil kit 279137 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Check the coils and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Hope this helps.
What coils will fit this old gas valve? It's over 20 years old but with very few problems.
Answer Hello Joe. I'm sorry. Two of the coils for this dryer have been discontinued and there is not a kit for all three. You can, however, still purchase the burner assembly. That is part 279894. I hope this info helps!