Thank your help . I replaced a new control board but the washer still not working. I have 120 volts.
Answer Hello Bui. You will need to test and see where your losing power at on the unit. Once you locate the loss, you will locate the part that is bad. Also, check the wiring carefully on the unit.
Unit will rotate in wash. Will not spin. But will spin in test mode. Get LR code when washing. Motor does not turn.
You will want to check the connections on the motor control board to make sure that the pins are tight on the board and that there is no corrosion on the board. If this checks ok then the most likely cause would be a bad motor control board 22004046.
When the washer is started, it runs fine until it gets to rinse or spin on a medium to heavy load. It then stops and we get an lr signal. When we turn the power off and let the machine control cool (it has an area on the upper right corner of the machine control which heats up during operation), the washer will complete its cycle. I have mounted a small fan outside the rear of the control panel and it blows on the control panel--this helps on small loads. Also, I have the machine on a surge protector which we turn off when we complete our loads; otherwise the machine control continues to stay warm. Do I need to replace the machine control or the assembly motor control?
Answer Berry, You most likely have an issue with the motor control board 22004473 (depending on serial number).It is normal for the control panel to get "warm" There is a transformer mounted to the Machine control board 22004488 (depending on serial number) that is "active" as long as there is power supplied to the washer, it will get warm. The "LR" code in short means the machine control board, is not "seeing" the motor run, quite often this is due to a weak or loose connection at the JP4 connector on the motor control board, or the P2 connector on the machine control board. To diagnose the issue, you'll need a multimeter that reads DCV and check for 0 to 5 VDC acroos the yellow(pin#1) and blue(pin#3) on the P2 connector while the washer is in a agitate mode. Then check for an increase in DCV across the same wires in the spin cycle(voltage will increase to 20-24 VDC then reduce down to approximately 12 VDC when the machine reaces the full spin speed). If you check and do not have any loose connections, the approximate voltages are present at the P2 connector, then the machine control board is at fault. If you do not have the voltages, then the motor control board is at fault.
washer machine power lights up but when we try to start machine wont start cycle and door locks is it the control panel motherboard problem
Answer Frank, Yes the machine control board could be the issue,there are several possibilities depending on the serial number of your washer. but you don't want to start there. Several things need to occur for the washer to operate, if the control board does not see a signal back from one of the components, it usually shuts itself off. You should consider conducting the tests and board output and inputs programs through the control board, before you replace parts unnecessarily. We'll send you some information that should help you out.
Washer will agitate fine, but when it comes time to spin I get the LR code. in the service mode in quick spin test, the motor spins slow and I get 00 for the rpm readout. In motor control board output test, the motor spins but still has 00 for rpm readout. Also membrane pad check test does not work.
Answer Hi Bill. Since LR is a locked rotor code, make sure you can freely spin the inner basket by hand with the door open. Remove the back cover and make sure with the belt removed, you can spin the large pulley. Make sure the rear basket bearing is not frozen. Hand spin the motor as well. remove the top and use the supplied tech sheet to ohm out the motor windings, the motor is part # 22003856. Make sure the wire connections to the motor and the control board are tight. The motor control is part # 22004473. Thank You.
This washer quit in the middle of the wash, door locked full of water, went completely dead. Checked main control board no visible signs of damage, same with the motor control board. Machine has power, power to the main board - power to the motor control board - power to the motor. Panel has no lights, will not go into to service mode/diagnostics. Unplugged the black and white connector at the motor control, no responce. If you have power going into each board and out How do you tell which board is bad, or are they< thanks Jim
Answer Jim, At connector P8 across pins 1(gray and black) and pin 2 (white, you should read 120 VAC to the main board, with the loading door closed. If you have the voltage there, and no response when you press a key on the panel or open and close the door, then check connector P6 pin 2 (black) to chassis ground , there should be 120 VAC.This would indicate power to the washer. If alls OK, the main conmtrol board is the issue 22004299 . Thanks
I need a part for my control board not the whole board. What do I do?
Answer Hello Steve! Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not offer parts to the control board separate from the board. To verify the correct board used on your appliance we will need the serial number. Please obtain this information and repost to make sure the correct board is ordered for your appliance. Thanks!
Diagnostic code "nd" come up on LED screen. The drain is not restricted, drain hose is clean, the pump works and all wire connections are good. Is this the control broad that I need?
Answer Hello Jacob. If the unit is giving a ND code, and the pump is working properly, you will need to make sure the pressure switch hose is not clogged, and the pressure switch 22004500 is working properly. Test the green and yellow wires for continuity and also the brown and blue wires. They should read closed for continuity. If either is reading open, you will need to replace the pressure switch. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html