My Maytag washer does not drain at the end of the cycle. We see standing water that is dirty that the dishes are rinsed with . UGH! water does drain, but we don't know if it fully drains between each cycle. since water does come I I would think that it is the controller? right? I installed it years ago so I am pretty handy with replacing parts.
Answer Hello John. There are a few issues that could be causing this problem. Here are a few things to check. 1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
6. Timer or electronic control.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Hope this helps
1 person found this answer helpful.
I have power to the unit, but no lights come on when door is closed. Any help appreciated!
Answer Hello. Check the latch assembly W10130696 and make sure it is working correctly. If so, try removing the ribbon cable from the control board and cleaning it. If there is still no lights, you may have a bad control board. Hope this helps.
1 person found this answer helpful.
Was running a wash cycle today. Something was pinched in the door seal while running, causing water leaks on the floor from high in the door seal. Opened the door during the cycle, repositioned the item in the upper rack, closed the door, and after a long delay (minutes?) the washer started up again as expected. Sometime later, noticed that the lights on the control panel were all out, and none of the buttons cause any action (i.e. no lights). Circuit breaker did not trip. Latch switches test fine. There was condensation moisture inside the door near the circuit board. So, assuming that either the controller board or panel is bad. Are there any tests to figure out which one? Or should I just plan on buying both and returning something?
Answer Hello John. If the board got wet, then you will need to replace the board. If there is power coming to the board, and nothing working, then the board is bad. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I'm writing for help with a dishwasher which stopped working after two years. The lights for heavy wash (high temp) would light previously but otherwise it didn't respond to buttons. Today, after checking what I could (ribbon cable, latch) and replacing the control PCB, there's no response at all to cycle start, and no fill or wash operations. I'm at about the end of my rope here. At the factory I'm confident they'd change control boards until something new showed up but that's not reasonable for me. Any ideas?
Answer Hello Laurence,
This sounds like there may be a control panel problem but you need to do some tests for voltage first. Make sure you have 120Vac to the control and you will also need to verify neutral at the control. Both of these have to pass through the door switches before getting to the control. If the voltage is getting to the control and the unit is dead, verify connections to the control panel before ordering the control board. I would go into further detail but cannot since the model number you provided comes up as invalid.
I have a Maytag dishwasher that will not run. The #3 is lit up beside the heated dry button and no other buttons work to make it start. Any help would be great
Answer Hello Jeff,
Since this unit has no LED display, I'm not sure what you mean by the #3 being lit up. If the light by the heated dry option button is illuminated, the option has been selected. If it is flashing constantly, the button is stuck and the control panel will need to be replaced. If the light is flashing seven times with a pause and then repeating, the issue is in the heating cycle. If the unit will not run, of course it will not be heated dry selected, so you need to watch the light to see if there is a pause after seven flashes. If so, you will need to check the heating element, the high limit thermostat on the bottom of the tub assembly, the door switches, the main control board, and the wiring harness.