My air diffuser freezes up enough to make ice that builds up inside and outside the cover. And my fridge makes noise when it runs. Could it be that my diffuser went bad ?
Answer Jean, at this point, it's probably not a faulty diffuser 2209751 It'll probably fail in the near future, but you have to eliminate the frost and ice first. Frost and ice inside a refrigerator/freezer is due to warm or moist air meeting cold air. So your first check needs to be at the door seals, dispenser seal and open containers in either compartment. Then start checking for electrical/mechanical failures, like a weak defrost thermostat, intermittent heater, or faulty control timer or board. Also check to see if there is water or ice on the floor of the freezer and refrigerator compartment, This would indicate a possible defrost drain issue and allows moisture to accumulate in the bottom and get distributed throughout the refrigerator.
Regarding the replacement the diffuser, I haven't removed the old one yet, nor have I received the new part I ordered to look at it. Are there tabs extending into the freezer section that need to be pushed in while I try to remove it off the wall of the refrigerator, (meaning do I have to remove panels in the freezer too?), in order for the diffuser to come out? Or is it just stuck to the refrigerator side wall with some type of adhesive behind the Styrofoam?
Answer It's always recommended to unplug the unit before starting as there is no way to guarentee that you won't encounter voltage in the process of a repair.
Look in the fresh food compartment at the top left hand side. There is a cover that is held on by a single 1/4 hex headed screw. Remove this screw and cover. You will find another screw behind where this cover was. Remove it also. Open the freezer compartment and remove the cover in the uppermost right hand side. Under this cover, there is a small rectangular hole with a tab hooked into each of the four corners. You have to press these corner tabs towards the center of the hole at the same time to release the damper assembly. It will drop towards the fresh food compartment. Be gentle and don't push it all the way through.
This model has an escutcheon, (control panel display) that has to be removed with a butter knife. You can use a screwdriver but the chances are high that you will damage it cosmetically. If you slip the butter knife into the slot at the top of the control display, after the removal of the knobs, and slide it across to the other side, this will release it and you can set it aside. There are two screws that were hidden behind this display panel, (1/4 inch hex). (Hint: When reinstalling, I never tighten these two all the way to ease the reinstallation of the display panel). Remove these two screws and look straight up behind the control area, (fresh food ceiling). There are two more 1/4 inch hex headed screws there. Leave one screw part way in for now.
Now there are two types of controls here. One has wires going to the damper control and the other has a linkage. Carefully reach back and pull the rear part, (damper assembly), out and hold it. There is a very delicate plastic part that the linkage goes into that will break if you allow this assembly to hang down if it has the linkage type control. Remove the screw that you had left in and lower the assembly, (front and rear), simultaneously to prevent stressing the damper linkage. Unplug the harness from the ceiling and lower the unit to gain access to the inside of the control box. Remove the two screws that secure the board to the control box. Now, one at a time, remove a wire and place it on the new board. Remove the next, and so on. once the wires are on, reinstall the two screws that secure it to the control box and you're ready to begin the reinstallation process.
This is where most people will break the linkage if so equipped, so be very careful! I usually find a Tupperware container or something else with a large top to set the damper assembly on while I plug in the harness and get a couple of screws started. Once the control assembly is held up by a couple of screws, you can reinsert the four prongs back into the rectangular opening. The rest is simply reinstalling covers and screws. Don't forget the covers in the freezer compartment. At the end of this repair, you have to reinstall the escutcheon, (control panel display). This can be tricky, but there are tabs that fit slots. Get them started and it should go in. Sure hope this wasn't too confusing.
About a month ago I noticed my freezer was frosted over pretty good and I did not do anything about it at the time. I recently realized that the fridge side was not holding temperature below 42 degrees. I read about similar problems in previously asked questions and I removed the difusser housing and maually opened the diffuser, I guess I will find out in the morning if that was the problem. If so do I just replace the flap mechanism from the fidge side or is there something on the freezer side that needs to be replaced? Also, what would cause my freezer to frost up like it did before everything else happened?
Answer Hi Mario. Your unit is a self defrosting unit. Every 6-8 hrs / 24 - 7 the unit will turn off the run time and then send 120 vac to the defrost thermostat part # 2306462 and then if it is closed (normally in frozen temperatures) It will pass the voltage to the defrost heater part # 2306389. This defrost control board or timer will allow it to stay on for aprox. 20-25 mins. untill the inside temp reaches 40 ° approx. and then the defrost thermostat now opens and stops voltage to the heater protecting cabinet damage. Therefore the damper was more then likely ok unless the damper motor could not regulate the opening / and / closing of the damper. You will need a volt/ohm meter to check the parts. In the frozen temps. your defrost thermostat will be closed-o-ohms. The heater will read resistance of approx. 11-18 ohms, not open. Then you need to advance the unit into defrost and check for 120 vac going to the thermostat and the white neutral wire. This will tell you if the control board is ok part # 2320696. Your wiring diagram is with the controls section. Thank You.
No cold air coming into fridge from freezer. Control unit in fridge seems to have a closed valve leading to freezer. I removed the wire cover and protective cover, cant't figure out how to get the unit off refridgerator wall.
Answer Hi Rich. The Auto damper is motor controlled. The wall gasket(no- leakage) is very sticky and you may need to use a putty knife to scrape it off. If you do, unhook it electrically and then physically open it to a 50% rate until you get the new part. This will help recover the no-cool. If you have to, block it so it stays open. The part # is 2209751. Thank you.
My side by side Kitchen Aid freezer works (cools and I hear fan noise) but the refregrator is not cool enough even at high setting. Some or slow cool air comes from the diffuser. Is this problem related to diffuser not opening fully or the temperature setting for the refrigrator?
Answer Ray, The diffuser is a very good place to start, and is most likely the issue. Before you replace it, check and make sure the air return tunnel grille on the left lower wall is not blocked or has frost or ice. Check the back wall of the freezer compartment for ice or frost build up, indicating a defrost problem. Thanks and Good Luck.
What is the correct way to change the air diffuse AP3046080? Do I have to take out alot of parts from the refrigerator in order to change this air diffuse?
Answer Hello Cora. You will need to remove screw holding the wire cover in place in the top left side of the refrigerator. Then remove the wire cover and remove the screw holding the air diffuser 2209751 in place. Once screw is removed you will be able to remove the old air diffuser and unplug the wires going to it. Reinstall with the new diffuser in reverse order. Hope this helps.