Hello! Five weeks ago the control board of my dishwasher (KitchenAid KUDP01FLSS2) was displaying a flashing light and was not operating. I changed out the control board, using the original thermal fuse, and all worked well for about 4 weeks. This time, the issue was the thermal fuse. I replaced it, but did not use the wires included with it, since the terminals of the existing wires fit perfectly on the poles of the new thermal fuse. The diswasher seemed to work perfectly, but it blew the thermal fuse again about 20 minutes into the wash cycle. I checked the thermostat, and it shows continuity. I also checked the heating element at the terminals (without removing it from the tub), and it shows continuity as well. Please advise your thoughts, as I have now blown the original fuse and a replacement fuse. I am concerned about installing and blowing a third fuse before diagnosing any other probable causes.
Answer Walter, you need to install the "complete" kit, including the wires. That's where the manufacturer traced the problem to. Also, since the heater and thermostat checks OK, you need to turn the power off, remove the junction box cover on the front frame and check the power supply wiring and wire nuts, for a good tight fit, and any weal or melted spots on the wires.
Washer works. Heat element does not. Is there a fuse problem?
Answer Hello Sam. Based on the information you provided, either the heating element, high limit, or control board is the issue. It is not the fuse. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hi, Dishwasher stopped mid-cycle. Unit not dead. No lights are illuminated on control panel and nothing works. Checked main house power panel and circuit breaker is OK. I disconnected leads to the thermal fuse on the dishwasher and checked continuity across the fuse, figuring this was the likely cause. My ohmmeter shows zero resistance across it, so that's not the issue. I removed the kick panel to check if power is getting to the dishwasher, but am intimidated by the mass of wiring underneath, and without pulling the dishwasher forward a bit from under the counter, really can't see where to check. I do see a wiring harness that feeds into the bottom of the dishwasher door with multiple wires. Am I missing some easy way to check power? The only other suspicious thing I saw when I had the control panel disconnected was that the translucent shields over the connectors attaching the wires to a part that looks like a white plastic or ceramic block just above and toward the left edge of the lower door panel (with control panel removed) are very yellow, like they have been overheated. The part is numbered 9742663. I would appreciate any help you can provide in troubleshooting. Thanks.
Answer Hello Dave,
Go to the breaker box and kill power to the unit. Remove the kick panel and look for a small galvanized box held in by one 5/16 inch head screw. Inside is the wiring connection from the home wiring. There should be two wires wire-nutted together and the ground wire around a ground screw. It is not an uncommon occurrence for one of the wire nuts to lose continuity and melt. This will cause no power to be supplied to the unit. If there is no issue notes, make sure nothing can contact ground and flip the breaker back on to test at this point for 120Vac. If nothing is there, the issue is in the home wiring or the breaker has failed in the breaker box.
Dishwasher runs through complete 'normal' cycle and at the end 'clean' light comes on and 'sani' light does too but it flashes continually, also dishes are wet. Whereas in the past 'sani' light would be solid and dishes dry and hot. Have checked heating element for continuity & it shows .04 ohms resistance & should be good. What else can I check?
You will want to check to make sure that there is power going to the heating element at the control board. Check when in the dry cycle for 120 vac to the heater. Make sure that the water temp coming into the unit is not too low and causing the unit to not be able to heat the water to the proper temp for sanitize. Also check the thermostat for the heater to make sure that it has continuity.