I have had service codes on my dryer. It started with the code for moisture sensor possibly open, with heatrer on and drum temperature not increasing. I then changed the element, the high limit cycle, the thermal fuse, the cycle thermostat, and the thermistor, the drum felt is now also new... I am consistently now getting "Selected dryer temp not reached" code 21. I feel no heat escaping around the door for it to be that, the blower wheel is tight on the motor shaft and working, and the vent is clean, ductwork is cleaned and clear. What's left to try?
Answer Hello John,
If you have verified the voltage to the unit at the terminal block, I would open the circuit by removing the purple wire from the heater relay on the board. Check both of these for 120Vac. The side with no voltage is where you will find the problem since both should have 120Vac on them when the motor is running. If this is good, check the thermistor for 10000 ohms @ 77° F. If good, I would verify the wiring to the sensor bard and clean them with rubbing alcohol. You can test them by shorting the bars together and testing from the board terminals PS5-1 to PS5-11, (pink to pink). If good, replace the board W10756689.
After power outage my clothes dryer starts and heats but only runs for 15- 20 seconds then shuts off. The lights around the dial flash twice then go off. It will start back immediately but does the same thing.
Answer Hello Dan,
This actually sounds like a poor electrical connection. I would start by checking the connections to the terminal block where the cord attaches to the unit. If this check out ok, look for burned spots on the plug prongs. If you find these, the wall outlet and cord will need to be replaced.
My dryer spins but won't heat. I have tested the termal fuse, flame sensor, and high limit thermostat for continuity and they all check out fine. I put an ohm meter on the ignitor and it reads 68. I'm concerned that my issue is probably the control board. One of my gas coils (3-4) reads higher ohms than it should its reading 65 higher than shown on service chart. Would this prevent my ignitor from heating up? The ignitor doesnt glow when I turn on the dryer. Any help would be greatly appreciated since I've been messing with it for too long. Thanks
Answer Hello Dan,
Looking at the tech sheet test #3, heater test, if the gas valve passes the test, replace the machine control electronic board. The test on the coils are as follows: On the coil with three terminals, you should read 1365 ohms give or take 25% from terminal one to terminal two. From terminal 1 to terminal 3 you should read 560 ohms give or take 25%. On the coil with two terminals, you should read 1220 ohms give or take 50%. If the resistance readings are not within the limits specified, replace the coils. If this does not correct the issue, replace the gas valve. It is at this point that the manufacturers' tech sheet recommends the replacementn of the machines' electronic control.
dryer will run & heat but will not shut off
Answer Eric, You will want to make a couple of resistance checks at the PS5 connector on the control board 37001286 first. In the wire harness connector, unplug it and test, pin#1(pink) to pin#11(pink) should read approximately 10,000 ohms resistance, Pin#3(blue) to pin #7(blue) you should read and "open" circuit, When you place something metal or wet across the sensor bar in the drum, the circuit should close. If all's OK, replace the control board.
Symptom is that the dryer starts, then stops within 10 seconds. I completely disassembled the unit and cleaned the components. Didn't notice any visible damage. Issue may be caused by thermal limit sw and or Control Panel. So I have two questions:
1. Any way to check the limit sw with an ohmmeter before spending 130.00+ on a Control Panel?
2. Any other causes for this symptom?
Thank you for your help,
You will want to do a resistance check on the thermistor of unit. On connector PS5 of the control board check from Pin 1 to Pin 11 and should have a resitance reading of approximately 10,000 ohms at room temperature. On the same connector you would do a continuity check on the sensor bars Pin 3 and Pin 7 of the PS5 connector. It should read open. When you put a piece of metal or something wet it should read a closed circuit. If these test ok then you will need to replace the control board. If they fail then replace the component. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Dryer runs but will not heat. I've checked heating element.
Answer Hello Bob,
You would want to check the high limit thermostat W10116735 to ensure that it has not failed. If the unit will not start at all then you want to check the thermal fuse 40113801 to make sure it has continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hello, Here is the model # to my question below: "I have a front loader dryer, it just stopped one day. The lights are on but when I press on start, the drum does not circulate, no heat or anything at all. Can you tell me whats wrong with it? could it be the circuit board?" Thank you Chris
Answer Chris, It could be a faulty control board, but don't start there. Your first checks should be at the Door Switch and catches, Mkae sure the switch"clicks when you press in on it, and that the catches keep the door closed and latched in place at both the top and bottom. From there you'll want to test or bypass the thermal fuse 3392519 located on the blower housing. If it is an "open" circuit, the motor will not start or run. Those are the more likely issues, based on your description. Thanks and Good Luck