My dryer works on high but no other setting. It is not that hot. Should I check the cycling thermostat?
Answer Hello Melvin,
You should check the cycling thermostat. The large terminals are the ones that open and close the heater circuit, but the ones that will affect the unit in the way you described are the small terminals. This is a heater circuit inside the cycling thermostat that causes the thermostat to open when the actual temperature is not high enough to open the circuit. This is how the low temperatures are achieved. The small terminals, (with the wires disconnected), should read 4.8K ohms, (or 4800 ohms). There is a 10% tolerance so if the reading is off by 480 ohms above or below, The part will be good. Any more of a deviation will necessitate the parts' replacement to restore normal operation.
My dryer will not go to high heat unless I shake the dryer.
Answer Hello Ryan. You need to look for a wiring issue on the unit.
My gas dryer take too long to dry.
Answer Hello Samuel. If the vent and blower wheel are clean, You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter to see if it is good. If it is not glowing, test for power. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My heater core will not turn on and heat. I put a new thermal fuse but it still will not turn on, could it be the thermostat...
Answer Hello Joe. It is possible that the heater or a thermostat could be bad. You would need to use a meter and test the components for continuity. If they test out good then you will need to replace the timer.
The dryer seems to works just fine on all heat settings for a few minutes, but then the heat shuts off. The drum does continue to run.The heat doesn't appear to ever come back on unless I shut the dryer off and start it again. Then it will heat for a few more minutes and shut off. I have checked and cleaned all of the air flow paths inside and outside of the the dryer. I have replace "all" of the fuse/thermostat/cycling devices and the heating coil. Nothing has changed the behavior of the machine.
You will want to access the heater assembly and remove 1 wire from the heating element, preferably the one that does not connect to the thermostat. Turn the dryer on and give it a few minutes to recreate the issue. Once this has been done then test the wire that you disconnected from ground. If there is no voltage then the motor switch is faulty and would require a new motor. If there is 120 vac then test the wire that is connected to the heater for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then since the thermal fuse and high limit have been replaced then the timer would be the issue.
The dryer comes on cycles and everything but will not heat. I checked heating element and the two thermostats on the heating element and have continuity on all them and the little fuse deal the other thermostat had continuity on one side but not the other side of it that thermostat has four wires on it is that my problem.
The thermostat with 4 wires is the cycling thermostat and in normal conditions will have continuity across the large terminals but not the small. When the unit is running and meets a certain temp criteria then the continuity would be reversed to the 2 on top having continuity and the larger outer ones not having continuity. You will want to check for voltage at the heating element. Disconnect the side that is not attached to the thermostat, this will be the motor switch side or L2. The thermostat side will be L1. Check with the unit running for 120 vac from L1 to ground. If there is 120 vac then the L1 side is good. If not then start working your way back across the terminals of the thermostats to make sure that there is 120 vac on each one. If the check ok then the timer W10185982 contact is not making to allow heat. If this side checks ok with 120 vac then the issue is most likely on the switch side. With the L2 still disconnected and the dryer running check for 120 vac from the L2 to ground. If there is not 120 vac then check the wiring to the motor and check wiring from the motor to the terminal block. Check for power at the terminal block from the outside terminal to the center terminal for 120 vac and then check across the outer 2 for 240 vac. If there is proper power and the wiring is good then replace the motor. If there is not 120 vac on each leg then check the wall outlet for 240 vac and 120 on each leg and if there still isn't proper power then check the breaker to make sure it is not tripped and if good then there is a home wiring issue.
I am not getting any voltage at the timing motor so I have to advance timer by hand. I measure 0 volts at the 2 timer motor leads. It heats up and cools down fine when advanced by hand though. Thanks for any helpfull information.
If you are not getting 120 vac between BK and TM on the timer then the timer itself is faulty and would need to be replaced as the motor feeds through the timer. That is if the unit is on time dry. If it is on auto dry then the cycling thermostat would most likely be the cause.