I have a dryer door switch assembly that has gone bad. Part # is 3406104. That part has been replaced by Part # 3406105. Looking at the new part online the new part has only one connector pin in the middle whereas the old part had 2 pin one on each side with nothing in the middle.
Would the new part work or do I need some kind of connector?
Answer Dan, You have the correct part number 3406105 it has been "substituted" by the manufacturer as a cost savings effort. This door switch will work on dryers with or without a drum light. If you have a drum light your internal wire harness will have three wires, if theres no drum light, the harness will have two wires. but the wires will align properly and supply power to the proper circuit, regardless.
Heating element gets hot when timer is set but dryer will not run
Answer Hello Mike. Check and see if the belt is broke or the motor is locked up and replace the part that is bad. The element should get hot unless the motor is running, unless it is shorted out or the belt is broke and the motor runs, but the drum does not turn.
My laundry is coming out of the washer with oil spots. What could be problem?
Answer Hello Robert. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the transmission 3360629 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.
How do I test the door switch with a multi-meter and what should it read? Thank you
Answer Hello Robert. It is best to test the door switch for continuity. When the switch is pressed in, like the door is closed, it should read closed for continuity. When open, it should read open. The light side of the switch will be the opposite. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
The dryer runs but is not heating. I've checked element and it shows 10 ohms resistance and all thermal switches and they all show closed and thermal fuse shows continuity. My question is there any part that the door switch could play in this problem, and what else could be the problem. Please help! Thanks!
Answer Hello William,
If the door switch were bad, the unit wouldn't run at all. Your problem is either a bad connection, a bad timer, or a bad centrifical switch in the motor. Or, we should probably back up and check the obvious first. Turn the breaker off and back on and check to make sure 240Vac is present at the terminal block. You see, the only part of the dryer that is 240Vac is the heating element. Everything else in the unit is 120Vac. Therefore the dryer can run and not heat with only 120Vac supplied to the unit, (as long as the leg suppling the motor 120Vac is good). If you don't see the 240Vac, the problem is the breaker, the recepticle, or the wiring. If you do have 240Vac, your problem will be one of the three problems I mentioned earlier.
How do I get to the door switch to replace it?
Answer Hello PJ. Disconnect the power to the unit and remove the lint filter from the top. Then remove the screws under the filter and release the clips in the front of the dryer and raise the top of the dryer. Once raised, you can access and replace the dryer door switch. Hope this helps.
AP2976041 replaces 2 wire P.N. 3406104?
Answer Hello Hank! Yes, the dryer door switch 3406105 is the correct replacement to the original 3406104. Thanks.