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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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    • Part Number: AP3109438
    • MFG Part Number: 4391960
    • Made by: Whirlpool
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: AP3109438)

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In cycle and smelled burning and smoke and steam coming from dishwasher. Did the dryer element malfunction?

Guest

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My dryer stopped drying clothes. I noticed no heat coming out of exhaust.

Guest for Model Number ler7646aw0

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Where is the heating element located on a new model samsung dryer?

K Man

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Hi - My dryer has been slow to dry--most jeans, heavy towels, etc. require two cycles at the highest heat and longest dry times regardless of the size of the load. Can I tell by looking at the heating element if it has partially burned out? How would I tell if it is a problem with the thermostat instead? Also, there is a tone that is supposed to notify you if you need to clean the lint trap. After vacuuming out this area we have heard the tone at random, even when there is no lint to be removed. Thank you!!! Alicia

Alicia for Model Number LE7800XSW3

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I have multi meter. What setting do I use to ck the thermal fuse and Heating element?

Jeff for Model Number LER6634BQ1

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How do I find the model number on my whirlpool Estate?

Ron

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This is long and involved.so I apologize in advance.Pulled out the dryer to clean vent. Probably broke a leveling foot (and then the roller went bad?) because shortly after I put it back the dryer was making a thumping noise (rhythmic). Father and husband said it was okay to keep running it (I know better than to listen to them NOW). Eventually, the noise stopped being rhythmic and became random and loud. Then the seal came off and tangled in the clothes (and began screeching that lovely metal on metal sound). Okay so I needed to replace the rear drum seal. And rollers. Which also meant axle shafts.Took it apart, decided the belt and idler pulley also needed replacing. Ordered all the parts, they arrived, went to swap them out and realized the washers for the axle shafts were chewed up as well. Waited another week to get those (bc hardware stores don't have the same ones). I finally got it all back together (including a new leveling foot) last night, it hummed beautifully. There was a burning smell at first but that went away, assumed it was just the glue from the seal? Pushed it back against the wall and dried a load of towels. Today, I went to put a load of laundry into the wash and water began seeping everywhere. I turned off the water to the washer, pulled out the dryer and realized that the plastic hose from the washer had a hole melted into it. The wall stud had a charred mark. Obviously the dryer was pushed in too far (not a 4 inch clearance from those pieces bc I'm an idiot). But my question (FINALLLY!) is can it be more than that? Can my heating element also be way too hot now? Did I screw up something while replacing all those parts or can it really just be that the back of the dryer cant be touching the things it's been touching for the last ten years? When the dryer runs and I open the door I can see the red hot heating element immediately cool down thru the holes but I don't remember if it did that before? I never noticed the element being red like that, anyway. So help? Is this a clearance issue or is something else wrong?

Jen for Model Number LE7680XMW0

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My dryer will not put out any heat, I have changed the thermal fuse, and ignighter kit. I don't no what else to do.

Steve

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What kind of metal is the coil made out of?

Bob

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The heating element is inside a housing that is welded! One of the questions asked about this! What is the drum and how do I remove it so I can get the element housing off?

Tammy for Model Number DE698

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