My dryer stopped working. It has power, lights, etc. but won't spin. It was squealing for a while, so I assume the belt broke. It is a couple of years old and gets alot of use. Would you recommend replacing the idler and rollers as well?
Answer Hello Dawson,
A belt 661570 normally won't just break. A dryer belt breaks because the drum opposes rotation and the motor slips in the belt, wearing it out. You don't have to replace all of the parts in there, but you do have to spin the wheels, (idler wheel 279640 and drum rollers W10314173), and any of them that oppose rotation have to be replaced to prevent the belt from breaking again.
Drum squeeking when it rotates (even by hand). I ordered the dryer repair kit (AP3109602). Is there anything else that I would need to order / replace? What is meant by "Thin Twins"? I believe it is 27" wide.
Answer Hi J.R. The thin twin is just a name for the 27" Washer / Dryer (twin) Model. They match in the smaller size. The kit you ordered is fine. When you have the inner drum removed hand rotate each roller and see if the roller shafts part # W10359272 are squeaking or if the idler assy. part # W10547292 needs replaced. It is usual that the roller shaft closest to the heater assy. will dry out and be noisy. The blower wheel is unique in this model that instead of it mounted vertically, it is under the center of the drum and is encased in a horizontal casing driven by a separate motor part # 8544775. Sometimes the blower wheel will have something stuck inside it and has made the blower wheel needing replaced part # 8544737. Thank You.
Followup to previous question & answer - The support and idler rollers are outside the drum and lint tube so I don't understand how lint is a factor. Also the center section appears to be solid steel so again I don't understand how it can be impregnated with lubricant.
Also - you missed the 2nd part of my original question - 4 support rollers and soon will have an idler - 5 rollers. Why are there only 9 triangle clips and one thin plastic washer ? Is the washer for the idler ?
Answer Hello Fred. The dryer drum rides on felt seals. They are not completely sealed. Especially where the duct is long, crimped or stopped up, the lint, heat, and moisture will blow past the drum seals. The bushings are impregnated with a dry lubricant. This is what we are told by the manufacturers. Any other questions pertaining to the impregnation of lubricant into the bushing material should be directed to the manufacturer. Since they made them, I assume they would be able to explain the manufacturing process.
Second part of the question: There are 2 "triangle clips" for each drum roller, (One on either side of each roller). One "triangular clip" Keeps the idler wheel from dropping off of the idler pulley shaft. The washer is for the idler pulley. It keeps the idler pulley from wearing through "triangular clip". If there is any more questions, please be sure to contact us! Hope you have a great day!
I ordered AP3109602 (4392067) for this dryer. The idler was missing and is in transit now. I have two questions:
1 - the support wheels I received have a metal core but in the Q & A for this part it says no lubrication is needed. It seems to me that metal rotating on metal surely needs some grease or oil. Please clarify.
2 - I have 4 support rollers and soon will have an idler - 5 rollers. Why are there only 9 triangle clips and one thin plastic washer ? Is the washer for the idler ? I do not want to disassemble the dryer without being 100% sure I have all the parts and that they are the correct parts. Thanks
Answer Hello Fred. Think of it like this, if you lubricate where all of that lint is circulated in the air, the lint gets pulled into the bushing and will lock it up faster than it will without lubrication. Plus, the bushings are impregnated with a self lubricant so as it wears, it actually lubricates itself. We are taught as technicians by the manufacturers that if anything in a dryer requires lubrication, it is to be lubricated with a dry lubricant such as corn starch or baby powder. NOTE: You cannot use graphite. If graphite gets into the drum with the clothes, you got a real mess! I don't know if you need it or not, but there's a manual that explains the do-it-yourself repair of this style unit.677818L. I hope this helps to clarify your understanding and if you have any more questions let us know. Have a great day!
I have heat and power on my unit. Why wont it start?
Answer Hello May. Check the door switch W10318609 and see if it is bad. Also, check and make sure the belt is not broken. If so, it will prevent the dryer from starting. You can test the switch with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Do you have a video demonstrating the installation procedure for this kit?
Answer Hello Guy. No, we are working daily on creating videos for every part we can provided. As of this time, we do not have one for this dryer kit 4392067. Hope this helps.
Our dryer is putting brown marks on our clothes, looks like a scorcth mark about 1 to 2 inches long. There is a gap between the tub and the rear felt seal, the tub doesnt turn true. Could the rollers be worn, or the felt seal? Thank you.
Answer Hi Alan. The drum come with the seals already attached. Part # is W10545924. The front Drum felt seal - This dryer drum felt seal is for use with many different models and may fit both the front and rear. This quantity of 1 seal includes adhesive to install. To order seal adhesive seperatelt, order 279368.
Part Number: 280114 Thank You.
My dryer is squealing badly. Will this kit help me out. My dryer is only 4 years old. Dryer Repair Kit AP3109602. And is there instructions anywhere on your site to show how to get access to the damaged parts and install properly.
Answer William, Your dryer is not a "thin Twin" product. If you prefer a kit, 4392065 is for a full size 29" dryer. You will need to totally dismantle the dryer. heres some help : 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. 2. Turn off gas supply to dryer. 3. Pull the dryer away from the wall and remove the top cover *Remove the three hex-head screws from the rear flange of the dryer’s top cover. NOTE: The top cover screws have nylon flat washers on them. Be sure to use these screws when you reinstall the top cover. Lift the rear of the top cover and slide it back so the tabs clear the catches on the bracket, and remove the cover from the unit. NOTE: Make sure that the tabs slide under the bracket catches when you reinstall the top cover.Remove the three screws from the electronic control board bracket and pull the bracket away from the side of the dryer so you can access the connectors.Disconnect the 3-wire connector from the main harness. Remove the following connectors and wires from the electronic control board: 5-wire connector at P1. Red and black wires at relay K1. 7-wire connector at P2. Ribbon cables at P3 and P4.Remove the 1/4 inch hex-head screw from the electronic control board. Squeeze the two board supports and remove the electronic control board from the bracket. Remove the two screws from the console
bracket. Open the door and pull out on the bottom of the console to release the locking tabs from the door panel.Lift the console straight up until the brackets are free of the left and right side panel flanges and remove the console. Place the console assembly on a padded
work surface with the bracket side facing up. Door Switch Push the wire holder out of the chassis hole. Press a screwdriver blade against the locking arms on each side of the door switch, (from behind the cutout), and push the switch and wiring harness out. Front panel Open the dryer door and remove the lint filter screen, then close the door. Remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Pull the panel out at the bottom, pull down, and remove the panel. Remove the hex-head screw from the lint duct bracket and remove the bracket. 6. Remove the three hex-head screws from the lint duct and remove the duct.Reach around behind the drive motor and push the idler wheel arm to the left, then remove the tension, and remove the belt from the idler pulley. Disconnect the 3-wire moisture sensor connector from the main harness connector. Disconnect the 3-wire door switch connector from the electronic control board connector. Loosen the two top front panel screws. Remove the two bottom front panel screws. Grasp the sides, lift, and pull the front panel forward so that the top screws are free of the keyhole slots. Lower the panel so that the drum sits on the components
inside the cabinet, and slide the front panel and rollers away from the drum.Slide the belt off the drum.Lift the drum and remove it from the
unit." You now have access to all the rollers, belt and idler assembly and can check, clean and replace parts as necessary. Good Luck and Thanks
How do I know if I just need the belt (broken) or if I need the dryer repair kit? TY.
Answer Hello Ollie! You will need to inspect the parts within the repair kit to see if they are defective. If they are, then you will need to order the kit. The repair kit is part number 4392067, the belt only is part number 661570. Thanks!