Dryer will not heat up. Replaced the Ignitor and stll would not light up, by-passed the Ignitor to see if it would light up with a match. still didn't work. Checked for Gas, there is. Checked Vent and exhaust they were clear. Any suggestions would be greatfully be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Answer Hello Walter,
Check your thermostats and flame sensor for continuity. You should have continuity through them. If you do not then you will need to replace the part. If these check ok then you will need to check the resistance of the coils on gas valve. You should have 560 ohms of resistance on the secondary and 1.22K ohms on the main. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Dryer gets way to hot. I mean very hot. You can't even hardly touch the clothes so hot. And that's on all settings. What is the problem.
Answer Hello Lex,
The first thing you want to check is to make sure that your venting from the blower all the way to the outside is clear of obstructions. What appears to be happening is the dryer is not able to release the heat and moisture to the outside. If this continues without the vent being cleared it will cause thermal fuse LA-1053 to fail.
No power to unit at all light will not even light up could this be the thermal fuse? There is 220Vac going to the dryer ok. Thanks!
Answer Hello Will,
This sounds like the thermal fuse LA-1053. Be aware that if the thermal fuse has indeed blown, it is blown by high temperature. This means that if you do not correct the issue with the exhaust duct, the thermal fuse will just blow again. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. Be sure to clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. Make sure if there is flexible ducting in place that it has not become crimped. If the air flow is not good, the unit will recirculate moist air causing the clothes not to dry.
Why are there two thermal fuses in kit LA-1053 but only one in the dryer (53-1182)?
Answer Hello Solomon. Yes, the one with the yellow dot is for gas and the one with the pink dot is for electric dryers.
Dryer gets really hot and shuts off mid cycle when set on high. Will restart when cools off. Will complete a full cycle when set on low. Any ideas?? Same result when not hooked to wall vent. Air blows strong out of back of unit.
Answer Hello KDB. Check and make sure the blower wheel is not clogged or the duct inside the dryer. If not, it may have a bad motor that is over heating and the motor will need to be replaced on the unit. This is a sign of either a venting issue or a motor issue.
The dryer works fine with timed drying. But it will not work on other cycles properly. It takes long while move from more dryer to less dryer or it just do not move. Then it will move from less dry to prior to wrinkle out. Then it stops at the wrinkle out cycle.
Answer Hello Bing,
Any time the dryer will not advance in the automatic cycles, the ducting is the issue. You see, the automatic cycles sense the moisture. As long as the duct will not properly pass the exhaust from the unit, the back pressure caused by the ducting causes the heat, lint, and moisture to blow past the drums' felt seals. The moisture is recirculated where it is sensed again and the timer cannot advance.
Where is the fuse located?
Answer Hello Thomas. On the side of the heater housing assembly. It has two white wires coming to it.
Dryer wont run.
Answer Hello Thomas. You need to test the thermal fuse in the thermal cut-off kit LA-1053 and see if it is open for continuity. If so, replace the fuse and the thermostat in the kit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My Whirlpool dryer quit getting hot, still runs, just won't heat. Coils on the element don't look burned. What would the next thing to look for?
Answer Hello Becky,
Without a model number, all I can do is throw out a few components to test. It would NOT be the thermal fuse because if it opens the dryer will not run. It COULD be the heating element, the centrifugal switch in the motor, the safety thermostat, the temperature switch, the cycling or high limit thermostats, (one or the other), or the timer. You could also have lost one leg of voltage. This loss could occur at the breaker box, the receptacle, the power cord, or the terminal block.
These are of course just general things to check. If you want to post a model number, we can get specific.