My timer stopped moving, working, (it stays in the exact spot I set it to,wont ever run down and shut off) and the dryer stopped heating at the same time. Is this what I need to replace?
Answer Hello Rena. You will need to test the thermal fuses W10423382, flame sensor 338906, igniter 279311 and the coils 279834. The thermal fuses, flame sensor and igniter should read closed for continuity. If the dryer is not heating properly, it can cause the timer motor not to receive power. Hope this helps.
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Timer is staying where I set it.
Answer Hello Shaji. If there is power coming to the 2 black wires of the timer motor, and the timer does not advance, replace the timer on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Dryer will not shut off at end of cycle just keeps on going only way to stop it is open the door.
Answer Hello Jerry,
You will want to look for a bad timer, shorted door switch or a short in the wiring of the unit.
The timer does not advance on auto dry settings only, also seems like it was taking longer to dry on this setting.Disconnected rear vent and made sure lint trap was cleaned and there was no change.
Answer Hello Dave,
If you have tried the unit without the duct connected, the issue will be one of three things. An open timer motor, a bad centrifugal switch in the motor, or timer switch "0" not making electrical contact. The timer motor will show a resistance, but should not read open or zero resistance. The centrifugal switch will read open unless the centrifugal weight is pushed against the spring tension to simulate the motor spinning the weights out. The timer contact "0" can be checked by testing from the timer motor wire to the orange wire or the white wire with a black trace, depending on the position of the timer knob. This connection, if good, will show zero resistance when the contacts close. This can be determined by studying the wiring diagram. The wiring diagram should be either in the control panel or it is sometimes glued to the rear of the unit.
timer motor runs on normal high
and low heat settings but not on the other two settings would i need to replace it
Answer Joe, No, it's not likely you need a timer 8299764 if the timer operates properly on one cycle,but not on another there's a very high chance, you have heat issue, usually a clogged or restricted exhaust vent pipe or vent hood, not a timer issue. On the "auto dry" cycles, the dryer has to reach the proper temperature(155 dgrs.) in order to complete the circuit to the timer motor so the timer can advance. If the temperature isn't correct, the timer won't operate properly.
Timer motor only runs in timed high
and low heat cycle won't run in air fluff.
Answer Hello Harold. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the timer 8299764 is bad and will need to be replaced.
My dryer will not start at all, drum turns and there is power going to it.
Answer Hello Brenda. You will need to test the door switch 3406105 and the dryer thermal fuse 3392519. The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing and the door switch is located on the front panel. The door switch should read closed for continuity with the door closed and the thermal fuse should read closed for continuity as well. If either on of these are bad, it will prevent the dryer from working. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
When I start my dryer it will heat up for the first cycle then will stop heating and the timer never moves I have replaced the igniter. Do I need to replace the coils.
Answer Hello Roger. It sounds like the coils 279834 are bad on the unit. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html