Intermittent heating (and broil) has started to occur on the KitchenAid KGSK901SSS01. Noticed a few weeks back that the oven failed to reach temperature. We don't use the broil feature all that much, but noticed this morning (for example during diagnosis) that the broil flame started but then extinguished after 10 seconds. The Elmnt-Brol #W10207402 had gotten hot to the touch and actually burned my finger tip abit. Question re: Elmnt-Brol: Does this element actually glow red/orange as a normal function or does it remain normally dark iron black and just heat up?
When starting bake cycle (and broil cycle) from cold, the oven seems to operate as normal. Pressing bake button on front
at 350 degrees for example, the fan initiates immediately, then the "tink" sound probably from the gas safety valve, then
the "tick" "tick", "tick" "tick", "tick" "tick" sound of the ignitor, then flame. Same for broiler. But then somewhere in the cycle the flame extinguishes either for oven or broiler.
Then starting and stopping, and then starting and stopping via the front buttons may coax the oven to heat all the way (at least
that is what happened on two separate occaisions recently in the last 2 weeks or so).
I tested the safety valve continuity/resistance on the three terminals. With wire disconnected, terminals 1+2 show ranged in the low 200 ohm range. With 2+3 terminals, I yielded similar metrics (e.g. 200 ohms). In looking at older threads for this
model, it seems my results are within the expected 216 ohms + or - 30 ohm range?
Given all of the above, can someone please help provide some perspective? Given that both broiler and oven are intermittent,
and that my results of the safety valve solenoid were within range, it does not seem plausible to me that the safety valve solenoid nor the spark ignitors for broil and bake are to blame. But, does that then lead the issue to the spark module board as the problem? Or the temperature sensor? Or the main board?
With both the bake and broil doing the same thing, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty control board as opposed to the temperature sensor or the spark module. The fact that the spark module lights the unit would be an indication that it is not bad. For the sensor you can test it and it should have a resistance of 1090 ohms. The resistance ratings should be +/- 10% and that would be for the safety valve also. If this checks ok then the control board would be the issue.
The oven works, stovetop works,... but my broiler has stopped working. For awhile, it would light, but then goes out after about 30 seconds. Now it's not lighting at all.
I ran cleaning cycle on the oven in case there was debris or something causing the problem, but that didn't change anything.
Thanks for your help.
Answer Hello Rachel,
You should check the wiring to the broil ignitor. If it is still sparking, the burner will be the most likely suspect. I would list part numbers for you but since the model number you provided was partial and pulled up ten different models, I do not want to give you an incorrect part number for your model. You can call in at 1-877-477-7278 and we can look it up for you or you can re-post with the complete model number.
Top burners work. Broiler works. Warmer tray works. But the oven does not. I can hear the igniter clicking. but it does not light the gas. There is a slight odor of gas.
It is taking the service guy forever to diagnose and come over and fix. He said that the wiring from the igniter must be scuffed and is shorting out weakening the spark. Does this make sense? If it does what do I need to do to fix this myself??
Answer Hello Steve,
You would want to test the gas valves and check to make sure that ignitor is in proper position in line with gas. The safety valve you would want to do an ohm reading from bake to common and from broil to common. The common is center terminal on valve. The resistance reading should be 216 ohms. If not within range then it would be a bad valve. The ignitor should draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps and if not positioned properly will not allow the gas to ignite. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Stove tops all work fine but the oven and broiler don't work. There is one or two clicks and then nothing happens. I've already purchased both igniters from this website and replaced the broiler igniter but can't reach the over igniter. My question is how do I get to the over igniter and also, could the problem be something else?
Answer Perry, The issue is more likely a faulty DSI module circuit W10331686 or gas valve coil issue 9763716 . You will need a multimeter to test the resistance of the coil and DC voltage to the gas valve from the module. You should have a resistance reading of 215 ohms from the center terminal to each outside terminal on the gas valve with the wires disconnected. With the wires connected and the bake selection and temperature selected you should read 8 to 18 volts dc from the orange(middle wire) to the outside red wire. and with broil selected you should have the same voltage from the orange wire to the outside blue wire. Here's some meter usage information should you need it [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html]
My oven won't light. All the top burners are fine. I assume the ignitor. Is there a way to test?
Answer Hello Don. You will need to check and see if the igniter is sparking. If it is not, then the spark module W10331686 may be bad. You can look for cracks on the igniter and check it for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html