My Whirlpool dishwasher is not working. In touching the control panel get nothing to work or light up. How would I test fuse? Or is this the control panel?
Answer Debbie, You do want to start by testing the control panel thermal fuse 675813 it is a good possibility it's "open" based on your post. Of course you need to remove power to the dishwasher, then remove the screws holding the inner door liner to the door frame. be careful with the wires to the control board, and remove the two wires attached to the fuse. Set your meter to the lowest resistance setting and place the meter leads across the two terminals, you should have a "closed" circuit. If not replace the fuse kit. If the fuse checks "closed" then you'll need to remove the lower access panel and kickplate, and check the wiring connections inside the junction box mounted to the front frame of the dishwasher. If the fuse and the connections in the junction box are OK, then start by replacing the control panel 8274721 it's more likely to be the issue than the control board.
dishwasher goes through a normal wash cycle. Instead of cutting off,the normal button will flash red for a while.Then start going through the wash cycle again and won't cut off. ???
Answer Randy, The more likely issue is in the control panel / key pad assembly 8051707 Apparently the "Normal" wash keypad has failed " ERROR MESSAGES STUCK KEY: If the control detects that a key is stuck in the depressed position, dishwasher operation will be suspended and the control will flash the light for that key until the condition is corrected. If a key without a light is stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the Lock-Out light."
We have a Kenmore 2 door fridge, Model number 106.52522100, and it has a serial number of: SL4950889. There was a leak under it a year ago, and the ice maker stopped producing ice. Basically water would not flow into the ice making tray anymore; I think these two things - the leak under the unit and the no water flowing into the ice making tray may be related, or may be they are not, I'm not sure. Anyhow, after talking with your knowledgeable sales people on the phone I ordered a new Inlet Valve AP5263471 and new Ice Maker AP 2984633 and installed them, and I find the problem is still there - water is not going into the ice maker and filling it up, so no ice gets made. There is water going into the water inlet valve, but for some reason the inlet valve is not switching on or something is blocking the water from flowing into the ice making tray, hence no ice. I am told now that I might need to order a control board for this fridge to finally fix the problem. Can you confirm that this is what I need to do? Thanks
Answer Hello Vidur,
You should check the fill tube to make sure it is not frozen up. If it is frozen, the water will not be able to get to the ice maker. You should use a straw or something to check for ice in the fill tube since it can sometimes be frozen completely clear and the ice inside it isn't visible. If it is frozen, you can thaw it with a hair dryer. This may take up to 15 minutes but it will clear the ice with no parts damage. This is caused by a failing water valve, which you have already replaced, so this will complete the repair you have already begun.
Hello Technical Support,
We have a Kenmore dishwasher: 665.17822000
For the last year, when I pressed the Normal Wash and then Hi Temperature Wash button, only the Normal Wash light would light up on the control panel but the High Temperature Wash button stopped lighting up, but I believe the dishwasher still ran a High Temperature Wash after pressing the Start button, but I have no way of knowing this, except that the dishwasher did correctly run a dry dishes cycle and was very hot once done. We have just been living with this problem, since the washer did run a full cycle and we didn't care much.
In the last two days, however, when I press Normal Wash (green light on panel does appear as usual) and then then Hi Temperature Wash button (still no light on panel), and then the Start button the machine just simply switches off altogether, and the green light on the control panel under Normal wash goes off, and the entire control panel appears blank. If I press Start again, I hear the machine starting to whir as if it is trying to empty the dishwasher of water, kind of like if you were to press the cancel button during a wash cycle. Is this a problem with the main control board AP 3175633 or control panel AP 3097109 or Thermal fuse AP 3115186?
By the way, our control panel is white in color, not black - a black control panel is what shows up on your website, is there a different part number for a white control panel, if a new control panel is what we need, according to you?
Thanks much Sir,
San Mateo, Ca
Answer Vidur, The issue should be in the control panel/keypad assembly 3384470. The LED lights are imbedded in the panel circuit board, if a light is inoperable, you'll need to replace the panel. Your other issue with the dishwasher display going blank, and attempting to drain, when reprogrammed, is also an indication of a faulty keypad assembly.
The lock light just blinks. It won't reset. The dishwasher won't run a cycle. What should I do?
Answer Hello Joe,
Watch the clean light and see if it flashes constantly or, if after seven flashes there is a pause. If there is no pause, the touch panel has a stuck key and will require replacement. If there is a pause, the heating circuit has experienced a failure and should be checked. If this is the case, putting the unit into a self-diagnostic cycle will clear the fault code and the unit will run through a cycle until the control recognizes the failed circuit again. At that point it will flash the code again. If you could please re-post with the model number on the units' I.D. tag, we can provide you with the self-diagnostic sequence and the components that should be checked.