The 'normal' light blinks constantly. No break in the blinking pattern. Dishwasher does not work and unplugging it hasn't helped. Help is GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks!
Answer Hello Melissa. Here are the instructions from the manufacture. Hope this helps.
A rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or sometimes a “dead” keypad/console) indicates one or more key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or the keypad. To determine which one, do the following test:
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Open console and disconnect the keypad ribbon connection from the control (at P1). Put console back together.
3. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
4. With door latched, disconnect and reconnect thermistor or OWI sensor two times in less than 6 seconds.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then monitor the control’s response to the thermistor:
?If the control is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad unplugged), it will respond by running service diagnostics. Listen for it to begin filling after it concludes the 5–10 second display test at the beginning of the service diagnostics cycle. Check and/or replace the keypad if the control responds OK.
?If the control is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged), then it will NOT respond to the thermistor at all and will remain off
after 10 seconds go by. Make sure the keypad is unplugged for this test. Confirm that all other connections are made, the console and
door are reassembled, power is back on, and the door is latched; then repeat steps 1-5 above. If still no response, replace the control.
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Hello, Both the fridge and freezer compartment's temperatures were too high and the unit wouldn't shut off. So I unplugged it, took off back lower cover and vacuumed all the dust and dog fur from the coil and everywhere down there. Then I went into the freezer compartment and removed the back, exposed the evaporator coil and fan and defrosted. It was solid ice and snow! I put it back together and plugged it in and in about an hour it gave me -5 F in the freezer and 36 F in the fridge. I thought I fixed it -BUT- it still won't shut off after 24 hrs. So in addition to it not shutting off, after another day the temp is rising again. The freezer is still frozen but barely, and the refrigerator section is mid 40's. I presume the evaporator coil is frosting up again but I am not a technician. Please help me buy the correct parts from you to fix this darn thing! Thanks, Joe
It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hi, its Kim again. Ok, the dishwasher model number is KUDL02LRBS. I have the whole front of the dishwasher off and the control board off. Need to know where the fuse is located and how do I know if it is blown?
The thermal fuse will be a round disc looking part in the control panel area. You test this fuse by checking it for continuity using a continuity tester or multimeter. If the fuse does not have continuity then it is defective and would need to be replaced.