I have my dryer set at 70 minutes but after 10 minutes it stops. Is this a timer problem? Thanks in advance.
Answer Hello Pierre P.,
This is an electronic control issue. The control is not sending the timer motor voltage in pulses as it was designed. You will need to replace the electronic control W10116566 to correct this issue.
Heater element works when I bypass all the wiring. Is there a fuse somewhere?
Answer Hello Gary. You will need to test the thermal cut-off kit 279769 and make sure it reads closed for continuity. If one is open, replace both parts in the kit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Gas dryer works great in timer mode. In sensor mode it just stops after drying for a short time (10-15min) knob does not advance to the end, it just stops. Sometimes it works for a load or two. I think that occurs after I unplug it to trouble shoot. Any Ideas?
Answer Hello Jim. It sounds like the venting system may be clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. Hope this helps.
If the dryer motor will start and run, but only when the start button is held down, the problem is never the motor. It is either the motor relay (very unlikely) or the electronic board (very likely). The motor relay has two pairs of wires. Check the pair that is closest together (the two wires that go to the circuit board); they operate the relay. With the dryer plugged in but off, the voltage is 0 volts DC between the wires; when the start button is pushed and the motor runs, the voltage should be 48 volts DC. If you get 48 volts, the relay is bad; if you still get 0 volts, the electronic board is bad. It's never the motor if the motor runs as long as the start button is held down because the start button (and the relay) energizes both the start and the main coils of the motor. Don't you agree?
Answer Hi Fred. The dryer motors always consist of a 2/fold centrifugal switch. It will allow the motor to come up to speed and then if it is up to speed it will drop the start winding as it has engaged the run winding to take over. Also it closes a switch contact that completes the other 1/2 of the 240 volt heater circuit. This is done as a safety measure so the heater is not in the circuit when the motor cannot run properly. Sometimes conversely the heater circuit will not work because the centrifugal switch is defective. Yes the start button is a momentary switch sending the neutral circuit to to the control board or the timer. Depending on the circuit design, it can be either a hot (L-1)circuit or mainly neutral. So if you need to hold the start switch and the unit will run the most common failure is a motor part # 279787.
The problem with the motor not continuing to run can be caused by a failed motor relay, a wiring failure in the start-sense wire connection or a failed electronic control board. The run voltage supply for the motor is traced in blue. When the start button is pressed, it bypasses the open motor relay through the circuit traced in red. This is why the motor will start and run with the push-to-start button pressed. Normally, the electronic control board will sense the start voltage through the start-sense wire (traced in green). When start voltage is sensed, the control board applies 48 volts DC through the pink/black wires (traced in pink) to shut and hold the motor relay closed so that run voltage is completed through the circuit traced in blue. This explains the possible failures mentioned above. If you have a broken start-sense wire then the board will not detect run voltage and will not apply the DC voltage through the pink/black wires to shut and hold closed the motor relay. If the control board is bad, it may be getting the 120 volts AC of start voltage through the start-sense wire but may not be applying the 48 volts DC through the motor relay. You could also have a failed motor relay that is getting the proper DC voltage but failing to shut and/or stay closed to apply run voltage through the circuit. Check the start-sense wire to make sure that it is properly connected.
This dryer uses the same relay for the motor and the heater. Since two relays rarely fail at the same time, you can unplug the dryer and switch the motor and heater relays to see if the dryer will stay running. If it does, then replacing the failed relay should fix your problem. If not, then the control board is your likely failure (assuming that the start-sense wire is okay). The power relay is part # 3405281. Thank You.