My gas dryer has no heat, what could be the cause and will I be able to make the repair myself. I am quite handy with large knowledge of several tools.
Answer Hello. You will need to check and make sure the igniter is getting hot enough. Also test the thermal fuses and flame sensor and make sure they read closed for continuity. You will also need to check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Hope this helps.
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My maytag Atlantis is missing model number. It's not heating found that the Ignitor is bad. The wife and I bought it in 2005. Need to know which Ignitor to order?
Answer Hello Aaron. Here is the most common dryer igniter 279311. You will need to look at yours and see if it looks the same. Hope this helps.
1 person found this answer helpful.
My gas dryer igniter comes on but the flame will not come on but, I smell natural gas. I have replaced the coils and the igniter but not luck. Someone suggested maybe its the flame sensor but, I have no flame. what could cause the gas odor?
The flame sensor works in conjunction with the igniter get the unit to start up. You will want to check to see if the flame sensor reads continuity. If the sensor has continuity then it is good and if no continuity then you would need to replace the flame sensor.
The dryer runs and the blower motor works fine. I get no heat. I have cleaned and replaced the Flat style dryer igniter (AP3109449. I also replaced the Dryer main coil and Secondary Dryer coil. Still no heat. I do not hear the start up click and the coil never glows. Yes, the dryer is getting gas. Help! What next?
Answer Hello Brad,
You need to check the thermostats, (hi-limit and cycling), the flame (radiant) sensor, and the centrifical switch in the motor. The temperature switch or timer could also have problems.
The thermostats and radiant sensor should show continuity when room temperature. The timer should show 120Vac at the blue wire. The centrifical switch will read open unless manually operated with a screwdriver. There should be a copy of the wiring diagram in the control panel of your unit. Be aware that the thing that causes this complaint is usually connected to the exhaust ducting. You should know that a heat producing appliance has to be able to get rid of the heat, or the heat will cause damage to the internal components. Make sure the ducts are clear, not crimped, and short and straight as possible.Let us know if we can lend further assistance.
Dryer seems to be working fine but when heat is needed I am getting a single loud POP when the gas(Propane)ignites.
Answer Hello Richard. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the igniter 4391996 is bad and will need to be replaced.
This is the second igniter I have changed on this particular dryer. Is there something else that could be causing this problem of going thru igniters?
Please let me know if there could be another problem? Since the last time I changed that igniter, the town municapality has cut off the gas to several homes in the area. I have had to go and relight water heaters stoves and other gas appliances. This does not sound like a gas issue. what do you think could be causing the gas igniter to keep failing. Please help
Thank You Curt
Answer Hello Curt,
The ignitors are man made, so they may be just lasting as long as they can. The other possibility is that the exhaust duct could be clogged, crimped, or just too long and complicated. You see, the air inlet from the room air cools the parts inside the unit as it is drawn in before it passes across the heat of the burner. If the exhaust is "restricted", it can cause premature failure of any of the internal unit parts.
You could also check the voltage at the outlet to make sure it's not above the maximum tolerance, (108Vac to 132Vac).
Hi. I also have the same issue with igniter glows red, gas fires up for about 15 seconds then both igniter and gas shut off completely. Based on my reading in this thread that igniter may be weak but it passed continuity test. Is the igniter has to be glowing red hot entirely during drying cycle? I replaced new coil but still experience the same issue?
Answer Hi Bob. This can be a plugged or kinked vent or a flame sensor that prematurely opens part # 338906. Make sure the vent is entirely clear and not restricted. Make sure the outside vent cap / hood is opening and closing properly 4-5x /yr. so lint and moisture does not back up and create a restriction causing these issues. The igniter part # 4391996 should ohm out to 50-400 ohms at room temperature. Use a volt/ohm meter part #@ TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Look at the center of the igniter and see if there is a hairline crack that may open during heating. Are there any lint built up around the motor ? Are you getting 120 vac to the dryer and the cord connections tight ? Are you getting 24 dc at the heater relay on the board. Ohm out the heater relay coils and see if they are between 350-450 ohms. Does the relay contacts close and send the 120 vac onto the wire and then the relay prematurely opens? The dryer thermistor part # 307208 on the blower housing should read 10,000 ohms at 77°. If it is more then 10% value then replace it. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Thank You.
I tested the continuity for the igniter and it is open. My dryer has no heat. Do I need to replace the ignitor first?
Answer Hello Tien. Based on the information you provided, if the igniter is open, you will need to replace the igniter 4391996 in the unit. Hope this helps.